PPG Custom Restoration Guide
This "Custom Restoration Guide" from PPG provides a comprehensive overview of best practices and processes for custom auto restoration, emphasizing surface preparation, painting techniques, and product usage. Here are some key highlights:
Safety and Equipment: It emphasizes the importance of safety, recommending specific personal protective equipment (PPE) and proper handling of products throughout the restoration process.
Preparation of Substrates: It covers extensive details on preparing different substrates such as metal and plastic parts for painting. This includes cleaning, sanding, and applying primers.
Painting Process: The guide details the steps involved in painting, including the application of undercoats, basecoats, and clearcoats. It also provides tips on achieving the right color and finish, including troubleshooting common painting issues.
Product-Specific Guidance: It provides specific instructions on using various PPG products, ensuring optimal application and adherence to safety standards.
Special Techniques: The guide discusses techniques for achieving specific finishes, managing paint defects, and ensuring long-term durability of the paint job.
This guide serves as a thorough resource for professionals in the auto body repair industry, offering detailed instructions to ensure high-quality results in vehicle restoration projects.
Custom Restoration Guide
THE ART OF ORIGINALITY.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
GETTING STARTED
How to Use This Guide 5
Restoration Process 7
Safety 8
Choosing Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) (PD-0001) 10
Paint Basics 11
PREPARING THE SUBSTRATE — METAL PARTS
Substrate Preparation 16
Initial Cleaning (PD-0105) 19
New E-Coat Parts (PD-1120) 26
Used Parts (PD-1130) 27
Removing Paint 28
Sandblasted Bare Metal (PD-1151) 30
Chemically Stripped Bare Metal (PD-1152) 31
Mechanical Strip—Hand or Sander (PD-1153) 32
Bare Metal Preparation (PD-1154) 33
Metal Treatment 34
Introduction to Epoxy Primer 38
Body Filler Process (PD-1180) 46
PREPARING THE SUBSTRATE — PLASTIC PARTS
Plastic Bare Parts (PD-1210) 50
Primed Plastic Parts (PD-1220) 51
Plastic Used Parts (PD-1230) 52
Plastic Body Filler (PD-1280) 53
PROTECTING THE UNPROTECTED — MASKING TIPS
General Masking 60
ATOMIZING THE PAINT —
SPRAY GUN EQUIPMENT
Introduction 62
Spray Gun Setup (PD-0400) 67
Spray Gun Troubleshooting (PD-0410) 72
Spray Gun Cleanup (PD-0420) 74
OVERVIEW OF THE UNDERCOATS — PRIMERS AND SURFACERS
Introduction 76
Primer Filler Process (PD-1510) 78
Sprayable Primer Surfacer Process (PD-1520) 79
Optional Use of Sealer (PD-1530) 86
Direct-To-Metal (DTM) Seam Sealer (PD-1563M) 87
Pinchweld Priming Process (PD-0570) 88
Sanding Primer Surfacer (PD-1590) 89
TABLE OF CONTENTS
RECOGNITION OF THE PIGMENT —COLOR IDENTIFICATION
Choosing the Right Color 90
Making a Sprayout Card (PD-1631) 92
Tri-Coat Color Letdown Panel (PD-1660) 93
APPLICATION OF THE PAINT — SEALER, SINGLE STAGE, BASECOAT,
CLEARCOAT
Sealer Application Process (PD-1701) 96
Basecoat Color Application—Waterborne (PD-1710) 102
Applying Multiple Basecoat Colors—Waterborne (PD-1712) 103
Basecoat Color Application—Solvent (PD-1715) 106
Single-Stage Color Application (PD-1720) 112
Midcoat Clear Application (PD-1725) 119
Clearcoat Application (PD-1730) 126
Matte Clearcoat Application (PD-1735) 136
COMPLETION OF THE PROJECT — FINISHED PAINT PROCEDURES
Finished Paint Overview 144
Removing Defects (PD-0800M) 146
Buffing and Polishing (PD-1805) 147
Final Cleaning and Detail (PD-0810M) 148
Final Cleaning Matte Clearcoat (PD-0820M) 149
APPENDIX: PD NUMBERS 150
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HERE ARE A FEW KEY ITEMS TO LOOK
FOR THROUGHOUT THIS MANUAL.
Paint Pointers will let you know when there
is some technical information that will help
you in the current process.
REMINDER Orange Text is higher priority
information that you should refer to at that
point in the process.
NOTE Blue Text is still important, but does not
require immediate attention like orange text.
2
1 These bars indicate the Mix Ratio for the
displayed product.
This spray gun represents what key
information is needed for proper
Gun Setup.
This clock represents the Dry Times for
the displayed product.
PD-0000 PD represents Process Document.
6
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for Custom Builders and
Restorations was developed by PPG Refinish with you in mind. No matter
what vehicle or vehicle substrate you are working on, this guide outlines
PPG’s recommended process for successfully surface prepping and painting
your project.
Along with these SOPs, you should also refer to the helpful information
contained in PPG’s product data sheets (PDS) that are available for each of
the products you will be using. You can download current PDS documents
at www.ppgrefinish.com. Please note, product availability varies by
geographical location. Questions regarding product availability, compliance
or proper usage should be directed to your local PPG distributor.
PPG’s Lifetime Limited Paint Performance Guarantee specifically excludes
custom finishes for various reasons, including but not limited to, excessive film
builds, flash and dry times beyond recommended times, etc. All expressed or
implied warranties, including without limitation, any warranty of fitness for a
particular purpose or use, are disclaimed by PPG. For additional information,
or to see exact coverages, please refer to PPG’s Lifetime Limited Paint
Performance Guarantee. http://us.ppgrefinish.com/guarantee
We hope you find this guide an easy-to-follow, valuable asset for achieving
your vision—a restoration with a beautiful paint finish that will last for many
years.
The PPG Refinish Team
Special Thanks to:
Jon Byers—Byers Custom
Neal Gerber—The Roadster Shop
Charley Hutton—Charley Hutton’s Color Studio
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7
RESTORATION
PROCESS
RECORD THE HOURS YOU SPEND ON YOUR PROJECT HERE.
STEP 1
Old Paint Removal
STEP 2
Clean & Corrosion Protection
STEP 3
Prime for Corrosion Protection
STEP 4
Body Work Over Epoxy
STEP 5
Corrosion Protection (over exposed metal)
STEP 6
Primer Filler
STEP 7
Block Sand
STEP 8
Primer Surfacer (final prime)
STEP 9
Final Sand
STEP 10
Sealer (optional)
STEP 11
Color Coat (basecoat or single stage)
STEP 12
Clearcoat
STEP 13
Sand, Polish, Detail
TOTAL HOURS INVESTED
8
SAFETY
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
KNOW THE PRODUCT THAT YOU ARE USING
Before handling PPG refinish products, read and understand the
information on the label and product Safety Data Sheet (SDS). The product
label and SDS contain all of the information necessary for the safe handling,
storage and use of PPG products, including health and physical hazards
specific to each product.
HOUSEKEEPING
High standards of housekeeping are essential to creating and maintaining a
safe and healthy working environment.
Avoid contaminating work surfaces with overspray, sanding dust or spills.
Clean spills immediately using the appropriate Personal Protective
Equipment (PPE).
Make sure there are no ignition sources nearby. If there are,
remove sources and ventilate area.
1. Contain and collect large spillage with non-combustible or
absorbent material, i.e., sand, earth, kitty litter. Do NOT allow
these materials to enter drains.
2. After absorption, put clean-up material in hazardous trash
container for disposal.
3. Pay attention to personal hygiene, e.g., washing hands before
and after eating or drinking and using the lavatory.
MIXING AND HANDLING
Used or partially used containers should be securely closed, properly
labeled and returned to the storage area as soon as possible after use.
APPLICATION
Technicians should be protected against the inhalation of dusts, vapors and
spray mists at all stages in the process. Providing good general ventilation
is essential to keeping airborne contaminants below dangerous levels.
Local exhaust ventilation should be provided at all points where emissions
to the workroom may occur.
Spraying must be confined to spray booths or enclosures fitted with
mechanical exhaust ventilation.
The mechanical exhaust ventilation systems should be kept running for a
short period after spraying to ensure the complete removal of vapors and
spray mists.
9
SAFETY
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (PPE)
Observe all PPE signs in the facility. Appropriate PPE in work areas include safety
glasses with side shields and fully enclosed leather shoes. Additional PPE is required in
specific areas and for specific tasks.
EYE/FACE PROTECTION
Safety glasses with side shields or goggles should be worn to protect eyes
from splashing. A full-face respirator or air-supplied hood should be worn
to protect the eyes and face from spray mist and solvent vapors.
SKIN PROTECTION
To protect the hands, nitrile, neoprene or butyl rubber gloves at least eight
mil thick are recommended. Latex gloves do not provide enough protection.
Anti-static paint suits are highly preferred and should be worn.
IF SKIN CONTACT OCCURS
Wash with soap and water immediately to remove the product before it has
a chance to act on the skin. If available, use waterless hand cleaner, then
rewash with soap and water. Solvents and thinners should NEVER be used
to clean hands!
RESPIRATOR OPTIONS
Supplied Fresh Air Respirators Recommended by PPG for
Spray Applications
A positive pressure supplied-air respirator or an air-supplied hood,
approved under NIOSH/MSHA TC-19C, should be used when spraying
coatings containing isocyanates or heavy metal coatings. Wear the
respirator for the entire spraying period until all vapors and mists are gone.
The respirator may also be needed when performing hot work (welding,
cutting or brazing) on surfaces with these coatings.
Powered Air Purifying Respirators (PAPR)
PAPRs are motorized systems that filter ambient air and typically include a
blower, battery, headpiece and breathing tube. PAPR systems have proven
to be an adequate source of protection in low-concentration areas as
determined by industrial sampling and proper evaluation of air quality,
Non-Supplied Air Respirators (Cartridges only, no air line)
PPG does NOT recommend using air-purifying respirator (APR) when
spraying coatings containing isocyanates or heavy metal.
10
CHOOSING PERSONAL
PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (PPE)
PD-0001
EYES
Wear safety glasses when handling wet paint.
Wear goggles when cleaning equipment.
Flush eyes with water if splashed.
Two-component spray mist can irritate eyes. Use a visor-type
mask or a full-face mask to reduce risk of irritation.
SKIN
Wear solvent resistant overalls with a hat or a hood.
Wear nitrile gloves for protection against solvents.
Use barrier cream before starting work.
Use hand cleaner, not thinner, to clean hands.
RESPIRATORY
Wear a particle or filtered mask when sanding.
In areas like spray booths, a proper, correctly fitted respirator is required.
It is best to wear a full-face air-supply respirator for all spraying operations to prevent
inhaling any spray mists in the operating environment.
An air-fed half-mask used in combination with safety goggles is also an acceptable
form of protection.
Booth ventilation must be as designed, maintained and operated correctly.
EYES SKIN RESPIRATORY
SANDING
CLEANING
MIXING/SETUP
SPRAYING
11
PAINT
BASICS
PAINT COMPONENTS:
PIGMENTS are finely ground powders from naturally occurring or synthetically
produced minerals. They provide:
Color and special effects Sandability
Opacity (coverage/hiding power) Adhesion
Durability and corrosion resistance Filling properties
RESIN is the backbone of paint and is needed for:
Film forming Gloss
Pigment binding Viscosity
Durability Adhesion
ADDITIVES are materials added in small amounts to give and/or improve
specific characteristics:
UV absorbers (durability) Driers and catalysts
Flow additives (leveling) Plasticisers (flexibility)
Anti-settle agents Anti-foaming agents
SOLVENTS (Thinners)
Reduce viscosity
Change speed of dry/flash-off
12
PAINT
BASICS
THERMOPLASTIC VS. THERMOSET FILMS:
Thermoplastic and thermoset products do not always work well together. If the
selected products are not compatible, wrinkling or lifting may occur.
RESIN RULE TEST
Here’s how to quickly determine if the paint film or substrates are
thermoplastic or thermoset in nature:
1. Soak a clean cloth in a medium-grade lacquer thinner.
2. A thermoplastic film will soften or dissolve. Lay the soaked cloth
on the paint film/substrate for approximately 5 minutes, then rub
gently. Lacquer thinner is a very strong solvent. Check the test area
for any signs of such deterioration.
3. A thermoset film will show no effects and should be considered
sound.
CONCLUSION
If the film/substrate is thermoplastic, strip to bare substrate before
proceeding with any repairs or refinishing.
If the films/substrate is thermoset, the repair procedure can proceed as
normal.
NOTE: If a newer car (1990 & up) with good paint and mild customization is the goal
AND the film build is less than 10 mil, it is acceptable to sand and paint over an existing
thermoset paint film.
13
PAINT
BASICS
STANDARD CONDITIONS:
Standard conditions are temperature, humidity and air flow data, and are used to
determine a paint product’s dry time, cure time, pot life, and all general performance
characteristics Use of standard conditions consistently on the product sheets allows
for comparison of one product’s characteristics to another. Below are the standard
conditions used by PPG (unless noted on the product sheet):
TEMPERATURE 68-70ºF / 20-22ºC
RELATIVE HUMIDITY 50%
AIR FLOW Adequate to quickly and continuously
remove all overspray during application
and enhance the curing process. A
recommended airflow rate is between 60
and 100 FPM.
THE 15° RULE:
While resin structures are constantly improving, this rule can be applied to
many thermoset (two-component) products. It explains how temperature
can affect a product’s dry time and pot life. The rule is made up of two parts:
1. For every 15° F increase in temperature above standard conditions,
a product’s dry time and pot life may be reduced by half.
2. For every 15° F decrease in temperature below standard conditions,
a product’s dry time and pot life may be doubled.
EXAMPLES: (STANDARD CONDITIONS)
60°F 70°F 85°F 100°F 115°F
DRY TIME 60 MINS 30 MINS 15 MINS 7.7 MINS 3.75 MINS
POT LIFE 120 MINS 60 MINS 30 MINS 15 MINS 7.5 MINS
NOTE: All product cross linking and curing in thermoset or two-component products
slows significantly or stops below 60° F (16° C). Thermoset paint will not cure
properly if subjected to cool temperatures during the curing stages. Such conditions
can result in a finish that may eventually dry but will exhibit reduced durability, gloss
and repairability. This loss of performance is a result of the film never reaching a fully
cured state.
14
PAINT
BASICS
WINDOW RULE:
This is a simple, three-part rule that can lead to paint failures if you miss the
appropriate “window.” These windows apply to thermoset (two-component) coatings
and open in the order explained below.
1 2 3 OPPORTUNITY WRINKLE ZONE STABILITY
1. OPPORTUNITY—chemically soft enough to accept a subsequent coat of the
same product or a compatible product.
2. DANGER—not chemically soft enough to accept a subsequent coat nor
hard enough to resist possible wrinkling that could be caused by applying a
subsequent coating.
3. STABILITY—chemically hard enough to resist possible wrinkling that could
be caused by the application of a subsequent coating
The time necessary for each product to move from one window to the next varies from
product to product. Follow the re-coat times on all product information bulletins. Make
sure to note the pot life of the product to anticipate when cross-linking will occur at
your temperature.
Remember the 15° Rule may apply to these times.
SEALER EXAMPLE:
A specific PPG sealer has been applied and flashed for 5-15 minutes. The timeline
below is based on the sealer’s product data sheet and shop temperature of 70°F.
APPLY FLASH APPLY POTENTIAL CAN APPLY SAND RESEAL
SEALER TIME TOPCOAT SENSITIVITY TOPCOAT BEFORE TOPCOATING
0-5 mins 5-15 mins 15-30 mins 30-60 mins 60 min to 72 after 72 hours
hours
1 2 3
Some potential causes of sealer sensitivity are thin film build of the sealer, extended
dry time of the sealer, higher temperature than standard conditions shortening either
of the “apply topcoat” windows (see 15° Rule), and thin sealer film over etch primer or
plastic adhesion promoter.
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16
PREPARING
THESUBSTRATE
INTRODUCTION
Getting down to bare substrate should be your
first goal as you begin the process of creating
a new custom or restoration finish. Even if
your project appears to have "nice paint," it
shouldn't mean you can scuff over what's
there, shoot some new paint on it and expect
some top end work. Who knows what may be
lurking underneath the existing finish or if
there’s enough topcoat to work with? That’s
why it’s always the best option to remove the
finish entirely and start with a clean slate.
METAL PARTS
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HIGH FILM BUILDS
Paint that is too thick can lead to failures such as peeling, splitting or cracking. A
factory finish normally has a film thickness of about 4 to 5.5 mils. PPG does not
recommend applying additional paint to surfaces exceeding 12 mils unless it is
stripped or sanded down to an acceptable thickness of 4-5.5 mils.
Custom and restoration paint jobs typically create higher film thicknesses than are
generated in traditional collision refinish repairs.
PRE-CLEANING
Many elements can contaminate the surface of a vehicle’s paint film, such as
waxes, polishes, road film, tar and general dirt. Pre-cleaning to remove any existing
contaminants is the first step in surface preparation.
CONTAMINANTS
Solvent Soluble Water Soluble
Wax Road dirt
Grease Bird droppings
Oils Tree sap
Road tar Cement dust
Polishes Acid/Alkali contamination
Other Other
Please check your local VOC laws on use of solvent-based cleaners.
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SUBSTRATE PREPARATION
SELECTING A PROCESS DOCUMENT BASED ON IDENTIFICATION AND PAINT REMOVAL TECHNIQUE
CHEMICAL MECHANICAL PRE-PRIMED USED SUBSTRATE SANDBLAST SODA BLAST MEDIA BLAST STRIP STRIP (DA) PARTS (E-COATS) (LKQ) PARTS
ALUMINUM* PD-1152 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1120 PD-1130
CARBON FIBER PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1130
CAST IRON PD-1151 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1120 PD-1130
FIBERGLASS PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1120 PD-1130
GELCOAT PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1120 PD-1130
MAGNESIUM
POT METAL PD-1151 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1130
POWDERCOAT PD-1120
SMC PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1120 PD-1130
STEEL PD-1151 PD-1152 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1120 PD-1130
COLD ROLLED PD-1151 PD-1152 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1120 PD-1130
GALVANIZED PD-1151 PD-1152 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1154 PD-1120 PD-1130
STAINLESS PD-1151 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1153 PD-1120
PROCESS UNAVAILABLE FOR SUBSTRATE
*Remove coating from Anodized Aluminum, then treat as regular Aluminum in above chart.
PD-1152
PD-1152
PD-1152
PD-1152
STEEL—
DO NOT PAINT
If painting powder-coated parts, treat as Used Part and follow PD-1130. If stripping powder coating from substrate,
use process for the metal type. If preparing substrate for powder coat, follow vendor recommendations.
STEEL—
STEEL—
19
INITIAL
CLEANING
PD-0105
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Wash & Rinse
Thoroughly wash entire vehicle with warm, soapy water. Pressure wash if possible.
When rinsing, concentrate on body panel joints (hood to fender, etc.), seams and wheel
openings. Dry completely.
2 Blow with Compressed Air
Blow off vehicle with compressed air to remove loose particles prior to entering paint
department. Again, concentrate efforts on body panel joints, seams and wheel arches.
3 Degrease
Apply the appropriate PPG cleaner using “apply and wipe off” procedure.
Apply using a wet, clean, lint-free cloth, paper towel or a pump to insure that any
contamination floats to the surface.
Wipe area dry with a clean dry cloth, turning and flipping it so contamination is removed
from the surface.
Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the panel, or wipe marks may be evident in the
painting stage. This may lead to paint failure.
4 Plastics
When cleaning bare plastic components use a water-based cleaner first to remove any
water-soluble contamination.
Follow by using a cleaner designed specifically for plastics and remove any solventsoluble contamination and release agents.
SX Cleaners
SX320, SX330 and SX440 are
conventional wax and grease removers.
SX394 is a low VOC wax and grease
remover.
SX Cleaners are specifically designed for
removing any wax, grease, silicones, road
tar, engine oil, overspray, adhesives and
other contaminants that could mess up
your finish. SX Cleaners are packaged
ready-to-use.
For more information on these
products, refer to OC-42.
For National Rule Regions
20
SX320 SX330
SX394 SX440
Fast Evaporating Cleaner
May be used to remove surface
contaminants after taping, such as
fingerprints.
May be used over all OEM finishes,
bare metal surfaces, cured and/or
dried refinish systems.
1.4 Low VOC Cleaner
Best used after sanding for dirt
particulate cleanup.
May be used over all OEM finishes,
bare metal surfaces, cured and/or
dried refinish systems.
DITZ-O® Wax and Grease Remover
Heavy-duty solvent cleaner.
Best used to remove tar, oil and
other heavy greases.
Do not use on soluble materials
such as laquer primer and
topcoats.
ACRYLI-CLEAN® Wax and Grease
Remover
Medium speed cleaner, best for
overall use.
Initial application floats
contaminants to the surface. A
second wipe with a clean, dry cloth
removes the contaminants.
21
SX103
Multi-Prep SX103 is a multi-purpose
product developed for use as an antistatic agent, or for wiping plastic parts
clean before painting.
You’ll also find this cleaner works well
for removing old paint from a plastic
part. Simply soak the part in a closed
container and SX103 will attack the
existing coatings while keeping the plastic
untouched.
For more information on this
product, refer to OC-29.
MULTI-PREP™ Cleaner
22
ANTI-STATIC
CLEANER
STRIPPER
Using a spray gun, apply a mist coat over the surface before
and after tacking. This will reduce static electricity and
minimize the attraction of dust and dirt.
Plastic Cleaner
Quickly removes silicones and waxes from plastic parts.
Saturate clean cloth and wipe in one direction, then wipe
immediately with dry clean cloth.
Will not harm or soften the plastic like other solvent
cleaners can.
Coating Stripper
Effectively removes thin layers of paint from small, used
plastic parts.
Soaking in a closed container works most effectively.
Further sanding will be most likely required to achieve
best results.
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ONECHOICE®
SWX350 is a waterborne surface cleaner.
SX1009 is a bug and tar remover.
SXA330 is a conventional wax and grease remover
available in a convenient aerosol package.
The OneChoice universal ancillary brand
of specialty products are designed to be
used with any PPG automotive coatings
system.
For more information on
these products, refer to OC-9
(SWX350), OC-16 (SX1009) and
OC-13 (SXA330).
Cleaners For Compliant Regions
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25
SWX350
SX1009
SXA330
H2
O-SO-CLEAN® Waterborne Pre-Cleaner
A superior, low VOC (0.21) surface cleaner used for removing
most contaminations, including wax and grease, mold
release agents and sanding dust.
2.9 VOC Bug and Tar Remover
Ideal for removing bugs, road tar, wax, grease, silicone,
engine oil and other contaminants. It can also be used on
bare metal, plastics, primers or cured automotive finishes.
Aerosol Wax and Grease Remover
Medium speed cleaner, best for overall use.
Initial application floats contaminants to the surface. A second
wipe with a clean, dry cloth removes the contaminants.
26
NEW E-COAT
PARTS
PD-1120
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
26
Most Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts come from the factory coated with an e-coat
primer. E-coat stands for “Electro-deposition Coating.” The part is dipped into a primer bath
and the e-coat adheres to the part with the help of an electrical process. E-coat is a very durable
and corrosion-resistant coating so it should not be removed from the part. Some aftermarket
manufacturers use a black shipping primer that is sometimes mistaken for e-coat.
The test in Step 3 below will help you determine whether your part is e-coat or a shipping primer.
1 Inspect part for imperfections and damage. Determine if any repairs need to be made.
(Follow all process documents for repairs made to the part.)
2 Clean entire part thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner using a clean towel.
Dry completely.
3 Test for e-coat by rubbing it, using a towel soaked with a strong thinner or urethane
grade solvent. If the coating wipes off or softens significantly, remove it by sanding, and
skip to Step 5. If coating integrity is maintained, it is a true e-coat.
4 When the primer is identified as an e-coat, follow these steps:
a. To remove minor defects, lightly sand primer with 500-600 grit on a DA
sander with an interface pad. Remove as little e-coat as possible.
b. On edges, body lines and hard-to-sand, recessed areas, use a hand
scuff pad.
NOTE: On e-coated parts not exposed to direct sunlight (like the backside of a fender or
the underside of a deck lid), it is not necessary to sand e-coat before applying epoxy
primer. Thoroughly clean the part with the appropriate PPG cleaner, and then apply
epoxy primer.
5 Repeat cleaning the entire part thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner and a clean
towel. Dry completely. Tack off the dried part.
6 Apply one coat of epoxy primer to bare metal cut-through areas. Allow flash time, then
apply one coat of epoxy primer to the entire e-coat part.
7 Proceed to body work. Refer to the Body Filler Process, PD-1180.
27
USED
PARTS
PD-1130
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
27
For prepping used parts, the industry’s best practice is to completely remove existing
finishes to ensure a clean, rust-free substrate.
1 Wash part with hot water and soap. Rinse and dry completely. Clean entire part with the
appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean towels to remove contaminants. Dry thoroughly.
2 Inspect part for imperfections and damage. Determine what repairs should be made, if
any. Follow all process documents for making repairs to the part.
3 For directions on the best process to remove existing finishes, refer to Removing Paint
on the next two pages (28-29).
4 Once existing finish has been removed, repeat cleaning the entire part thoroughly with
the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean towels. Dry completely. Tack off the dry part.
5 Apply 1-2 coats of epoxy primer to the entire part.
6 Proceed to body work. Refer to the Body Filler Process, PD-1180.
28
REMOVING
PAINT
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
MECHANICAL STRIP
Clean with the appropriate PPG cleaner. Remove paint with
80 grit. Avoid 36-40 grit disc because it leaves too deep of a
scratch in the metal.
PROS CONS
• Removes old body work • Time consuming
and surface rust • Labor
• Safest way for do-it-yourself
MEDIA BLAST
The dry method is preferred and is becoming more popular.
Should be sanded with machine 120-180 grit to remove
paint (slight nibs) that can be left behind. To remove
remaining rust, those areas will need to be spot sandblasted or wire-brushed.
PROS CONS
• Safe way to remove paint • Does not remove rust
• Will not pit or abrade metal
CHEMICAL PAINT REMOVERS
Aircraft strippers (Must be neutralized with water)
Environmentally Compliant (PPG DURAPREP)
PROS CONS
• Best for original paint • Messy job, leaves metal smooth
• Does not remove rust
• Slow for cars with multiple paint jobs
• Does not remove body filler
Here are two links for more
information:
http://www.popularmechanics.
com/cars/how-to/maintenance/
how-to-blast-your-car-partsclean-15997905
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Abrasive_blasting
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29
OXIDATION 30 MINUTES 50% HUMIDITY
SAND BLASTING
Do not use chemicals on newly sandblasted metal substrates—prime immediately.
PROS CONS
• Great for pitted rusty areas,
after paint is stripped by other
means. This method is perfect
for spot blasting.
• Best for frames and other
heavy gauge metal
SODA BLASTING
While Soda blasting may be popular in some areas, PPG does NOT recommend this process.
CAUTION: When left unprotected, bare metal
begins to oxidize (flashrust) after 30 minutes at
50% relative humidity.
29
• Severe potential for warping;
This method has the most
potential for damage to the
vehicle.
30
SANDBLASTED
BARE METAL
PD-1151
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
There is no metal treatment in this process. Metal treatments cannot be used on a surface
with a deep profile, like sandblasting or grinding with coarse grits.
1 After paint removal, clean sandblasted part with dry air. Use clean gloves to avoid
touching blasted metal with bare hands. Do not sand. Do not wipe with any cleaners.
Sandblasted part is already abraded and clean.
2Immediately apply two coats epoxy primer.
CAUTION: When left unprotected, bare metal begins to oxidize (flashrust) after 30
minutes at 50% relative humidity.
3 Complete welding, rust repairs and sheet metal patching.
4 Clean with the appropriate PPG cleaner.
5 Reapply epoxy primer for corrosion protection.
6 Proceed to body work. Refer to the Body Filler Process, PD-1180.
31
CHEMICALLY
STRIPPED BARE
METAL
PD-1152
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
There is no sanding in this process. One explanation may be that the work is on a newer vehicle.
1 After paint removal, if rust or old body filler still exists use PD-1154.
2 Perform metal treatment* process (reference PDS OC-36 for detailed instructions).
Steel: Use SX579 / SX520
Aluminum: Use SX533 /SX503
CAUTION: Do NOT apply etch primers or body filler directly over these metal treatment
products.
*Cannot be used in some areas due to VOC or heavy metal restrictions. Proceed directly
to epoxy primer.
3 Apply epoxy primer.
4 Complete welding, rust repairs and sheet metal patching.
5 Clean with the appropriate PPG cleaner.
6 Reapply epoxy primer for corrosion protection.
7 Proceed to body work. Refer to the Body Filler Process, PD-1180.
32
MECHANICAL
STRIP
PD-1153
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
HAND OR SANDER
There is sanding AND metal treatment in this process.
1 Sand the entire part using a DA sander with P80-P180 grit.
Clean with approved the appropriate PPG cleaner. Tack off surface.
2 Apply two coats epoxy primer within 30 minutes of sanding.
REMINDER: When left unprotected, bare steel begins to oxidize (flash rust) after
30 minutes at 50% relative humidity. Sanded aluminum begins to oxidize almost
immediately. Protect with epoxy primer.
3 Complete welding, rust repairs, sheet metal patching, fiberglass or gelcoat repairs.
4 Clean with the appropriate PPG cleaner.
5 Reapply epoxy primer for corrosion protection.
6 Proceed to body work. Refer to the Body Filler Process, PD-1180.
33
BARE METAL
PREPARATION
PD-1154
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
There is sanding AND metal treatment in this process.
This process is used for rust-pitted metal and old body filler, and bare metal that has been
exposed for more than 30 minutes. One reason may be to create a “tooth” or scratch so that
subsequent paint applications adhere well.
1 Sand the entire part using a DA sander with P120-P180 grit and an interface pad.
Remove rust pits and old body filler.
Clean with approved the appropriate PPG cleaner. Tack off surface.
2 Perform metal treatment* process (reference PDS OC-36 for detailed instructions).
Steel: Use SX579 / SX520
Aluminum: Use SX533 / SX503
CAUTION: Do NOT apply etch primers or body filler directly over these metal
treatment products.
*Cannot be used in some areas due to VOC or heavy metal restrictions. Proceed directly
to epoxy primer.
3 Apply epoxy primer.
REMINDER: When left unprotected, bare steel begins to oxidize (flash rust) after
30 minutes at 50% relative humidity. Sanded aluminum begins to oxidize almost
immediately. Protect with epoxy primer.
4 Complete welding, rust repairs and sheet metal patching.
5 Clean with the appropriate PPG cleaner.
6 Reapply epoxy primer for corrosion protection.
7 Proceed to body work. Refer to the Body Filler Process, PD-1180.
34
METAL
TREATMENT
Although chemically treating metal and aluminum is the best way
to provide corrosion protection for your project, some areas restrict
their use due to VOC or heavy metal restrictions. Always check local
regulations before beginning your project. Oftentimes, this process is
complicated because these products must be rinsed with water. This can
be difficult to manage on some vehicles.
The process is easy on parts—such as fenders, hoods, doors,
etc.—when the part can be kept wet with SX chemicals, then
rinsed and dried. The process is harder on larger parts because
SX chemicals cannot be allowed to dry before rinsing. Sometimes
many hands are required to perform this operation. If help is not
available, it may be easier to sand parts or smaller areas, one at a
time. The same day that the metal treatment process is completed,
remember to apply a coat of epoxy primer to prevent the metal
from rusting, oxidizing or becoming contaminated. Do not sand
metal treatments; simply apply epoxy primer.
HERE IS HOW IT WORKS
The acid in Metal Cleaner (SX579) first attacks the metal at the
crystalline grain boundaries.
This causes the phosphate crystals to begin to grow along these
grain boundary lines.
After the grain boundaries are attacked, the acid begins to etch the grain
surfaces and phosphate crystals appear at these sites. The resulting
mass of growing phosphate crystals spreads over the surface and quickly
grows into one another. The final surface appears smooth to the unaided
eye; however, the iron phosphate surface has left a rough surface to
which the epoxy primer can adhere.
35
Hydrogen gas and some dissolved iron are produced during the
phosphating process. Left alone, these materials are undesirable.
The hydrogen gas interferes with crystal deposition and the dissolved
iron reduces corrosion protection by the phosphate. Fortunately, both
hydrogen and the dissolved iron are rendered harmless by oxidizing
agents that have been added to the phosphating solution. The hydrogen
is converted to water and the dissolved iron is converted to an insoluble
form that comes out of the solution as sludge. This must be rinsed off
with water before it is allowed to dry on the surface. Since the “bare
steel” now has a phosphate coating, the water does not react when the
technician rinses off the sludge.
Consult SDS for hazardous ingredient content. Drippings and run-off from the
product may be hazardous. SX520 and SX503 run-off will always be considered
hazardous. Check with local municipality (POTW) before allowing run-off or rinse
waters to go into the sewer.
To avoid adhesion concerns, DO NOT apply
etch primer or body filler directly to
metal treatment.
36
METAL
TREATMENT (CONTINUED)
36
STEEL PARTS:
For maximum corrosion protection, use both SX579 and SX520.
SX579 METAL CLEANER
Cleans metal and stops rust.
Will remove slight surface rust.
Leaves a rust-colored phosphate coating BUT it is
NOT rust!
SX520 METAL CONDITIONER
Conversion coating
Leaves a blue/green-colored zinc phosphate coating with
added corrosion resistance.
REMINDER: Bare steel starts to rust in 30 minutes at 50% humidity.
ALUMINUM PARTS:
For maximum oxidization protection, use both SX533 and SX503.
SX533 ALUMINUM CLEANER
Deep cleans aluminum.
Removes oxidation, preparing surface for
subsequent coating.
SX503 ALUMINUM CONDITIONER
Conversion coating
Leaves a gold-colored coating with added
corrosion resistance.
REMINDER: Aluminum starts to oxidize 8 hours after sanding.
37
38
INTRODUCTION TO
EPOXY PRIMER
In the restoration process, epoxy primer is used to set the foundation for
corrosion protection, preparing the entire project for the processes that
follow. If parts are too large to prime in the given timeframe, consider
working on individual parts or smaller areas.
EPOXY PRIMER
Should be sprayed over metal or aluminum that has been treated with
metal treatments* after dried and within 8 hours.
Sand blasted or sanded metal should be epoxy primed within 30
minutes at 50% humidity to prevent rust from starting.
Epoxy primer will not stop or neutralize any rust that has already
started or is already present.
SPECIAL NOTES
Epoxy primer needs to be applied within 30 minutes of paint removal,
especially in humid conditions. If this is not possible, consider
working on individual parts or smaller areas of the project to meet this
timeframe. Using the metal treatment system will extend the working
timeframe.
Untreated steel and aluminum should be coated with a minimum of 3.0
mils wet (1.5 mils dry) of epoxy primer for corrosion resistance.
Steel and aluminum treated with PPG’s metal treatment system,
should be coated with a minimum of 1.0 mils wet (0.75 mils dry) of
epoxy primer for corrosion resistance.
*Metal treatments cannot be used in some areas due to VOC or heavy
metal restrictions. Refer to local regulations.
38
39
EPOXY PRIMER AND BODY FILLER
One coat of epoxy primer must dry 1 hour before
body filler application.
Two coats of epoxy primer must dry overnight before
body filler application.
Epoxy can be scuffed or lightly sanded before applying body filler.
For more specific instructions, refer to PD-1180 in this manual.
REMINDER—APPLY EPOXY PRIMER
PROMPTLY
Bare steel starts to rust in as little as 30 minutes
at 50% humidity.
Aluminum starts to oxidize in 8 hours after sanding.
To avoid contamination, do not touch metal with bare hands before
applying epoxy primer.
39
In the restoration process, epoxy primer is used
to set the foundation for corrosion protection,
preparing the entire project for the processes that
follow. If parts are too large to prime in the given
timeframe, consider working on individual parts or
smaller areas.
VP2050
VP2050 offers strong corrosion
resistance and is compliant for all
markets.
VP2050 is a gray two-component, directto-metal high build primer. It’s fast drying,
easy to sand and it can be applied over
properly prepared steel, aluminum,
fiberglass and existing coatings in good
condition.
For more information on
using this product in National
Rule refinish markets, refer to
VB-18NR. Refer to VB-18 for
use in low VOC compliant
refinish markets.
DTM High Build Primer
40
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
2
½
1
VP2050
VH7050
AIR DRY 16-24 HOURS 70ºF
RECOAT
15 MINS 70ºF
1.4-1.8 mm
29-40 psi
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
FORCE DRY
40 MINS
140ºF
APPLY BODY FILLER
OVERNIGHT 70ºF
DT8XX
DT18XX
41
DPLV
DPLV 2.1 Epoxy Primer is available in the
following three colors that can be blended
together to achieve the full range of gray
shades, G1 - G7: White (DP48LV), Gray
(DP50LV) and Black (DP90LV).
DPLV 2.1 VOC Epoxy Primer provides
excellent adhesion and corrosion
resistance for many types of properly
prepared steel, aluminum, and fiberglass
substrates. This low VOC primer may also
be used as a sealer and topcoated with
many of PPG‘s 2K urethane undercoats or
direct gloss color, as well as PPG solvent
and waterborne basecoats.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-245.
2.1 Epoxy Primer
42
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
2
1
1
DPLV
DP401LV
DT18XX
AIR DRY 1 HOUR 70ºF
APPLY BODY FILLER
OVERNIGHT 70ºF
RECOAT
15 MINS 70ºF
1.4-1.6 mm
40-50 psi
8 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
FORCE DRY
30 MINS
140ºF
43
F4921
Delfleet Evolution is a versatile, low-VOC
epoxy available in three colors: gray,
(F4921), black (F4921BK) and white
(F4921WH).
This epoxy primer can be topcoated
directly in as little as 30 minutes
as a primer sealer. F4921 primer
also provides excellent adhesion
and corrosion resistance over a
wide range of properly prepared
substrates, making it a great choice
for your restoration project.
For more information
on this product, refer
to DFT-071.
2.1 VOC Epoxy Primer
44
DELFLEET® EVOLUTION
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
3
1
1
F4921/
BK/WH
F3385/F3390/
F3395
AIR DRY 90 MINS 70ºF
RECOAT
10-15 MINS 70ºF
APPLY BODY FILLER
OVERNIGHT 70ºF
1.3-1.5 mm
FORCE DRY
40 MINS
140ºF
F4922
8 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
HVLP 10 psi
Compliant 45-55 psi
45
46
BODY FILLER
PROCESS
PD-1180
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
46
Epoxy primer must dry for one hour and all metal work must be completed before
starting the body filler process. Applying body filler over epoxy primer provides maximum
corrosion protection for the metal. Apply filler within seven days of applying epoxy primer
to maximize adhesion.
OPTIONAL: Scuff Epoxy with P120-P180 grit sand paper or red scuff pad.
Do NOT break through epoxy when scuffing.
1 Clean the repair area with the appropriate PPG cleaner.
2 Mix and apply body filler over epoxy. Use the suggested amount of hardener. Excessive
amounts may result in product failure.
Apply thin, tight coats of filler, building up to fill as you spread, rather than a loose, thick
coat. Spread as large of an area as possible instead of many small areas (patches) on a
large panel.
3 Block sand body filler with P40 grit paper on a hand block to rough shape the filler.
Avoid coarser grits. The “V” of a 40 grit scratch is not as deep as 36 grit scratches.
If possible, sand body filler the same day it is applied. The longer it dries,
the more difficult it is to sand.
For maximum corrosion protection, exposed bare metal should be covered with another
coat of epoxy primer prior to Primer Filler stage.
4 To more easily identify low areas, apply Guide Coat to body filler before final sanding.
5 Finish sand body filler with 80 grit sandpaper until guide coat is gone. If low spots still
exist, reapply body filler. Do not proceed to Primer Filler stage until filled area is even.
Adding body filler AFTER primer filler should be avoided to prevent possible adhesion,
staining and shrinkage concerns.
6 Ready for Primer Filler PD-1510 when body filler is completed and the car is straight.
47
48
PREPARING
THESUBSTRATE
INTRODUCTION
Since the mid-1970s, car manufacturers have
increasingly used plastic and rubber parts,
such as plastic bumpers, instead of heavier,
more expensive steel parts. So if you’re
interested in restoring a vehicle manufactured
from the mid-'70s onward, it’s important to be
familiar with restoring and refinishing plastic.
This is especially important since some of
the parts from this era are no longer being
reproduced or made available.
PLASTIC PARTS
48
49
PLASTIC BODY
PANELS
Sanding is the most effective way to strip plastic body panels.
Plastic is not very strong, so applying too much pressure when
sanding can damage the part.
Using any paper coarser than P80 grit can damage the plastic
and most likely cause it to crack.
Care must be taken when sanding so as not to damage the
structure of the part. Structural damage should be repaired
using welding or plastic repair techniques. Structural damage
should never be "hidden" using filler or primer surfacer.
REMINDER: Overly aggressive sanding of the part can reshape
the plastic and may ruin body lines and overall appearance.
50
PLASTIC
BARE PARTS
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
PD-1210
1 Using the SU4901 Clean and Scuff Pad:
a. Tear open SU4901. Clean and abrade the substrate thoroughly. Verify
thorough abrasion. Use one package per full-size plastic bumper part.
b. Rinse very thoroughly with water.
NOTE: Water should sheet (run-off) from the surface. If water beads up,
repeat the cleaning process before proceeding.
c. Blow or wipe completely dry with a clean cloth.
2 Using the SU4902 Plastic Adhesion Wipe:
a. Tear open SU4902, wring out excess liquid and apply a light, even coat over
the entire area. Use one (1) package per full-size plastic bumper part.
b. Wipe in one direction to minimize product overlap.
c. Allow for a 3-5 minute flash time. Verify that the part is dry and dull in
appearance.
3
Apply a single light coat of either SU4903 Advance Plastic Bond or SUA4903 (Aerosol)
Advance Plastic Bond to the prepared surface. Allow for a 5-minute flash time, then
verify that the part is dry and dull in appearance.
NOTE: Substituting SU470LV or SUA470LV is acceptable in this process.
4 Apply 1 coat of flexible sealer to the entire plastic part.
5 Proceed to Paint Application.
50
51
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
PLASTIC
PRIMED PARTS
PD-1220
51
Depending on the supplier of the part, it may be beneficial to check the integrity of the primer
coating. The test in Step 2 below will help you determine whether your part can be sanded then
topcoated, or if it will require paint removal prior to continuing the restoration process.
1 Wash part with hot water and soap. Rinse and dry completely. Clean entire part with
the appropriate PPG cleaner using clean towels to remove contaminants.
Dry thoroughly.
2 Test existing finish by rubbing it with a strong thinner or urethane-grade solvent on
a clean towel. If coating wipes off or softens significantly, remove it by sanding and
skip to Step 4. If coating integrity is maintained, it is an acceptable foundation for the
restoration process.
3 When the existing finish is known to be acceptable, follow these steps:
a. To remove minor defects – Block sand with P220-P320 grit. The goal is
NOT to strip the surface to bare plastic. The goal is to level the surface and
remove the defect.
b. On edges, body lines and hard to sand, recessed areas, use a gray scuff
pad or a pad coarse enough to remove all gloss.
4 Re-clean entire part thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean towels.
Dry completely.
Tack off the dry part.
5 Apply plastic adhesion promoter to bare plastic and cut-through areas.
6 Apply one coat of flexible sealer to the entire primed plastic part.
7 Proceed to Paint Application.
52
PD-1230
Depending on the age and supplier of the used part, it may be beneficial to check the
integrity of the existing paint. The test in Step 2 below will help you determine whether
your part can be sanded and then topcoated, or if it will require paint removal prior to
continuing the restoration process.
Determine existing paint film build on used part. If greater than 5 mils, decide whether
to keep the part. If yes, refer to Removing Paint (see page 28 of this manual) for
directions on the best process. Inspect part for imperfections and damage. Determine
what repairs should be made, if any. Follow all process documents for making repairs
to the part.
1 Wash part with hot water and soap. Rinse and dry completely. Clean entire part with the
appropriate PPG cleaner using clean towels to remove contaminants.
Dry thoroughly.
2 Test existing finish by rubbing it with a strong thinner or urethane-grade solvent on
a clean towel. If coating wipes off or softens significantly, remove it by sanding and
skip to Step 4. If coating integrity is maintained, it is an acceptable foundation for the
restoration process.
3 When the existing finish is identified as acceptable, prep this way:
a. Block sand with P220-P320 grit to remove minor defects. The goal is NOT to
strip the surface to bare plastic. The goal is to level the surface and remove
any defects.
b. On edges, body lines and hard to sand, recessed areas, use a gray scuff pad
or a pad coarse enough to remove all gloss.
4 Re-clean entire part thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean towels.
Dry completely.
Tack off the dry part.
5 Apply plastic adhesion promoter to bare plastic or cut-through areas.
6 Apply one coat of flexible sealer to the entire used plastic part.
7 Proceed to Paint Application.
PLASTIC
USED PARTS
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
53
PLASTIC
BODY FILLER
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
PD-1280
PPG does not manufacture any plastic body filler or plastic repair epoxy so the procedure
may vary across each supplier. Determine if the part you are working with is either flexible
or rigid. Choose the appropriate filler for either rigid or flexible.
1 Scuff the bare plastic part if not already sanded.
Clean off and tack the area where repair or filler will be applied.
For best results, using a plastic repair or filler epoxy is recommended.
2 Based on the filler you choose, check the manufactuer's recommendation for proper
adhesion promoter and wait time.
a. Apply plastic adhesion promoter to repair area and let flash dry.
b. Apply thin tight coats to repair area, building up to fill as you spread, rather
than a loose thick coat. Spread as large of an area as possible.
3 Block filler with no coarser than P80 grit on a hand block to rough shape the filler.
Move up to a finer grit and finish with a finer grit.
REMINDER: Plastic tends to “hair” when sanded with coarse grits and may not come out
with a finer grit sand paper. Use the finest paper possible while still shaping the part.
Additional priming may be necessary.
To more easily identify low areas, apply Guide Coat to body filler before final sanding.
Finish sand filler with P150 grit sandpaper until guide coat is gone. If low spots still
exist, reapply filler. Do not proceed to Primer Surfacer stage until part is straight.
Adding filler AFTER primer filler should be avoided to prevent possible adhesion,
staining and shrinkage concerns.
4 Re-clean entire part thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean towels.
Dry completely.
Tack off the dry part.
5 Apply plastic adhesion promoter to bare plastic cut-through areas.
6 Apply appropriate primer surfacer, based on the part's flexibility, then proceed to
Sanding Primer Surfacer PD-1590.
7 Proceed to Paint Application.
SU470LV
SU470LV and the aerosol version, SUA470LV, are
1K adhesion promoters for use within all North
American markets and are recommended for
use under PPG and NEXA AUTOCOLOR® brand
undercoats and topcoats.
After proper cleaning and recommended
use, SU470LV will deliver exceptional
adhesion to bare, unprimed automotive
bumpers, fascias and other automotive
plastics.
For more information on these
products, refer to OC-35.
1K Compliant Adhesion Promoter
54
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
AIR DRY
10 MINS 70ºF
1.3-1.5 mm
* psi
8 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
APPLY SEALER
PRIOR TO TOPCOAT
APPLICATION
SU470LV is packaged ready-to-spray.
No additional components needed.
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
If dried longer than
one hour, lightly
sand, re-clean and
re-apply SU470LV
or SUA470LV.
55
SX1057
SX1057 Flexible 2K Surfacer was developed
to offer an easy-to-sand, high build 2K
urethane surfacer that delivers excellent
performance on urethanes, plastics, gel
coated fiberglass and other substrates.
SX1057 with its catalyst, SX1058, offers an
enhanced level of flexibility and adhesion
to properly prepared substrates.
For more information on this
product, refer to OC-32 .
Flexible 2K Surfacer
56
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
AIR DRY
2 HOURS 70ºF
FLASH DRY
5-10 MIN 70ºF
DUST FREE
20 MIN 70ºF
1.3-1.5 mm
* psi
1 hour
POT LIFE 70ºF
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
8
1
2
SX1057
DT8XX
D87X
SX1058
57
SX1056
SX1056 Flexible 2K Sealer was developed to
offer an easy mix, flexible 2K urethane sealer
used to improve adhesion before top coating
flexible parts.
SX1056 with its catalyst, SX1058 offers an
enhanced level of flexibility and adhesion
to properly prepared substrates.
For more information on this
product, refer to OC-22 .
Flexible 2K Sealer
58
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
AIR DRY
30 MIN 70ºF
FLASH DRY
5-10 MIN 70ºF
DUST FREE
10 MIN 70ºF
1.3-1.5 mm
* psi
45 min
POT LIFE 70ºF
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
4
1
2
SX1056
DT8XX
D87X
SX1058
59
PROTECTING
THE UNPROTECTED
INTRODUCTION
Masking protects parts of the project from
overspray when priming or painting. It’s also
used when creating two-tone or special-effect
finishes. Masking is often overlooked when
doing touch-ups or any minor spraying. Be
sure to always pay particular attention to this
all-important step. It’s a lot easier to take the
time for taping compared to having to remove
overspray from the trim or new set of wheels.
MASKING TIPS—CUSTOMS
AND RESTORATION
60
61
GENERAL MASKING
Mask previously painted areas before painting exterior frame, underbody,
interior, etc. using standard masking tapes, plastic sheeting, and masking
paper.
Door jambs should be masked at door skin seams or jamb body
seams to avoid leaving visible hard lines.
For best results, apply final coat of clear to exterior and jambs at the
same time by opening doors or removing previously painted parts.
TWO-TONES
CUSTOM PAINTING, STRIPES, GRAPHICS, FLAMES, ETC.
Apply an inter-coat clear over dry basecoat. Then mask for the two-tone
effect. This step will add depth to the finish and raises the stripe, graphic
or flame from the initial base color.
Use fine line or plastic tape for clean, sharp edges.
Press tape down firmly while trying NOT to stretch the tape.
Use ¾” paper tape for layouts, then run ¼” fine line or plastic tape next to
the ¾” tape to get straight lines.
REMOVING TAPE— immediately after last coat is sprayed or wait
until paint is fully dry.
Always pull tape back against itself to cut paint clean without leaving
jagged edges.
If tape is removed while the paint is still drying and gummy it can
cause the paint to peel back and leave jagged edges.
For optimal results, allow paint to dry for at least two hours or overnight,
depending on conditions.
62
ATOMIZING
THE PAINT
INTRODUCTION
Having the right spray equipment is essential
for creating a top-quality paint finish.
However, you could have the best gun in the
whole universe, but if you don’t know how to
set it up and use it, it might as well be a $20
gun. It’s essential to learn the basics of gun
setup so you don’t waste time and money with
redos.
SPRAY GUN EQUIPMENT
62
63
SPRAY GUN EQUIPMENT
Spray equipment manufacturers provide a multitude of fluid needle,
fluid nozzle and air cap combinations.
Commonly called gun setups, these options are generally designed
for applying specific types of refinish products, such as undercoats,
basecoats and clears. It can be difficult to determine the exact gun setup to apply a new product. Understanding a simple ratio is the best way
to determine the performance of a particular gun set-up.
FLUID-TO-AIR RATIO
This ratio balances the amount of paint coming out of the fluid nozzle
with the amount of atomizing air being supplied by the air cap. This ratio
is the key performance factor for any type of spray equipment.
In the technical development of products, there is a recommended
amount of fluid flow—known as fluid ounces per minute—based on the
percentage of solids volume of a product once it is reduced and ready
to spray. This information can be found on the product’s information
bulletin PDS.
Manufacturers will also indicate how many fluid ounces per minute can
be obtained with a particular gun setup. By using these two sources of
information, you can choose a gun setup for any spray gun and it will be
appropriate for the product you are spraying.
The balance between paint fluid flow and atomization is too important
to be left to chance or random guessing.
Proper gun setup is important because it can affect the final appearance
of the material being applied.
64
With too much fluid and not enough
atomizing air, the paint can:
run, sag and curtain
Leave too much film build
Create excess solvent/water in film
Dry and cure more slowly
With too much atomizing air and not
enough fluid, the paint can:
Orange peel, no flow
Leave too little film build
"flashdry" trap solvents
Haze, dieback and solvent pop
ATOMIZATION
Paint atomization means breaking up a paint liquid into droplets or spray mist.
HVLP spray guns use a high volume of air at low pressure to carry the
paint droplets to the painting surface. While conventional spray equipment is
measured at the gun handle, HVLP spray guns are measured at the cap. To meet
compliant area regulations, air cap pressure cannot exceed 10 psi.
Reduced Pressure (RP) or Compliant spray guns combine the characteristics of
both conventional and HVLP. The paint is atomized at a high pressure but has the
transfer efficiency of an HVLP-type spray gun.
65
1.8 mm 1.3 mm
FLUID TIP FLUID TIP
SURFACE OF PAINT
HIGHER BUILD LOWER BUILD
Atomization is a critical element that helps determine how any finished
automotive paint job will look. Poor atomization will cause a host of
problems, such as texture or orange peel in sealers and clearcoats.
Variables that affect droplet size and atomization include:
Size of the openings in the fluid tip and air cap.
Air pressure at the air cap.
Fluid (paint) delivery system.
SURFACE OF PAINT
Because HVLP spray guns have pressurized, gravity-feed and suction-feed fluid
delivery systems, the amount of air pressure or lack of it will have a dramatic
effect on droplet size and atomization.
66
30 psi 35 psi 40 psi 45 psi
DETERMINING THE CORRECT PRESSURE
WITH YOUR GUN AND YOUR PAINT
• Hold the gun about 6-8 inches from a piece of masking paper.
• Set the pressure at 30 psi, pull the trigger back fully and release.
• Repeat at 5 psi increments until two identical patterns are produced.
No single spray gun or setup will work for the entire project.
Don’t adjust the paint so that the equipment works properly.
The equipment should work as you need it to. If the result is not
satisfactory, change equipment and/or equipment settings to
improve results.
When in doubt about spray equipment, ask the spray equipment
manufacturer or your PPG Distributor for assistance.
In this example, the optimum
pressure will be 40 psi.
For HVLP guns, air cap
pressure must not exceed
10 psi to meet air quality
regulations.
67
SPRAY GUN
SETUP
PD-0400
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Determine fluid size and air cap.
Follow spray gun or paint manufacturer’s recommendations for the product
being used.
2Set air pressure on the high side for primers and high-solids products, lower for
basecoats and low-solids products.
Adjust for proper atomization and repair size.
Compliant spray gun—35-45 psi at the gun
HVLP spray gun—set psi at the gun, not to exceed 10 psi at the air cap.
3 Test the spray pattern horizontally.
Rotate air cap to spray a horizontal pattern.
Screw air control knob in to make a small round pattern to start. Test spray
an open pattern to about six (6) inches wide.
Use appropriate gun distance for size of repair
3-6” for small spots and 6-9” for medium to larger repairs.
Aim at a target and pull trigger fully for a 3 count, then release.
Check for an even pattern with even runs across the pattern.
4 Test the spray pattern vertically.
Rotate air cap to spray a vertical pattern.
Use appropriate gun distance for size of repair
3-6” for small spots and 6-9” for medium to larger repairs.
Aim at a target and pull trigger fully for a 2 count then release.
Check for an even pattern and good atomization.
5 Make final adjustment to spray pattern size.
3” for small spot repairs
3-6” for medium-to-large spot repairs and small panels
6-9” for medium panel / multi-panel repairs
9-12” for large areas / multi-panels
6 Make final adjustment to fluid delivery to match pattern size.
Turn the knob in to decrease the fluid for smaller patterns.
Turn the knob out to increase the fluid for larger patterns.
68
SPRAY GUN
TECHNIQUE
SPRAY GUN ANGLE
The recommended spray gun angle is 90° in relation to the surface being
sprayed. At this angle, the product is transferred evenly to the surface.
Maintaining a perfect 90° angle to all surfaces is impossible, using it as a
guideline increases the chances of the paint being deposited evenly.
This proper gun angle also reduces the possibility of striping or
metallic mottling and better ensures proper film build and drying
characteristics.
SPRAY GUN SPEED, PATH AND OVERLAP
Maintining an even spray gun travel speed helps ensure uniform film
build. The best way to judge gun speed is to watch the way the paint is
striking the panel. Ask yourself the following questions while spraying:
• Is the paint laying down correctly?
• Is it wet enough?
• Is it even enough?
The spray gun path or overlap should provide the proper “wetness”
without creating excessive film build. Use a consistent overlap of 50-75%
as recommended in the PDS to achieve even film build characteristics in
solventborne products.
When spraying tri-stage or candy paint, the overlap must be
increased to 90% to achieve an even finish in the color.
69
FIRST PASS
50% OVERLAP
SECOND PASS
SECOND PASS FIRST PASS
90% OVERLAP
The diagrams below show two examples of commonly used overlaps.
70
SPRAY GUN
DISTANCE
The distance from the surface will vary based on the repair size
and the spray equipment used. The most common distance for PPG
solventborne products is 6-9 inches.
PROPER DISTANCE 6-9”
Holding the gun at the recommended distance allows the right amount
of material to reach the panel, aiding in flow and leveling.
This technique enables the following:
• Allows the correct in-flight solvent loss
• Dries and cures correctly
• Provides even film build
• Allows for proper adhesion
6-9” FROM SURFACE
71
CLOSER DISTANCE 3-4”
Holding the gun closer than recommended restricts
the separation of atomized particles, resulting in
excessive wetting of the product.
Holding the gun too close:
• Drives solvent-rich material onto the
surface, leading to insufficient film build
• Traps solvents that can lead to die-back and
solvent popping
• Slows dry and cure times
GREATER DISTANCE 10-15”
Holding the gun farther back from the surface
than recommended allows the atomized product to
widely separate and will lack the required wetting on
impact.
Holding the gun too far:
• Causes material loss due to
in-flight solvent loss
• Dries product too fast (will have a dry,
rough film)
• Results in insufficient film build
• Causes improper wetting of material
• May require more coats to cover
10-15” FROM SURFACE
3-4” FROM SURFACE
72
SPRAY GUN
TROUBLESHOOTING
HVLP AND COMPLIANT EQUIPMENT
PD-0410
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
FLUID TIP SIZE AND AIR CAP
Follow spray gun or paint manufacturer’s recommendations for the product being used.
BANANA, HEAVY TOP OR BOTTOM PATTERN
Fluid tip or air cap is dirty/damaged
Test spray pattern, rotate 180 degrees and test again to isolate cause.
Clean both items thoroughly or replace fluid tip or air cap if damaged.
HEAVY CENTER OR BALL END PATTERN
Too much fluid flow or bad air/paint setting
Fluid flow too high—reduce
Air pressure too low—increase
Fluid tip too large—reduce
SINGLE OR DOUBLE SPLIT PATTERN
Too much air for fluid quantity used
Reduce air pressure at regulator.
Increase fluid flow by changing fluid tip size or opening needle control knob.
INTERMITTENT FAN OR ‘FLUTTERING’
Air in the fluid passageway
Insufficient paint in cup
Fluid tip loose
Fluid needle packing or packing screw loose
Cup vent hole clogged
73
HEAVY TOP/BOTTOM
DOUBLE SPLIT
BALL END PATTERN
BANANA PATTERN
SINGLE SPLIT
HEAVY CENTER
FLUTTERING
74
SPRAY GUN
CLEANUP
QUICK CHANGE CUP SYSTEM
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Use a disposable spray gun cup or a cup with a disposable liner.
2 Invert spray gun, pull trigger to release paint and remove gun cup.
Dispose of leftover paint.
3 Remove air cap and clean it with a soft bristle brush and cleaning solvent.
4 Trigger the spray gun and remove the fluid tip with fluid tip wrench and clean it with a
soft bristle brush and cleaning solvent.
5 Remove the fluid needle and wipe it clean with cleaning solvent.
6 Flush spray gun with cleaning solvent through the hole where the gun cup attaches.
Flush until clean.
7 Wipe all parts and spray gun body dry with soft cloth.
8 Reinstall fluid needle while triggering the gun.
9 Lubricate according to spray gun manufacturer with approved spray gun lube.
PD-0420
75
WATERBORNE
CLEANING
PROCEDURES:
1. Immediately after color application is complete, flush and clean
the inside of the spray gun.
2. Rinse thoroughly with SWX100 OneChoice Waterborne Gun Wash.
3. Remove air cap and clean separately.
4. Thoroughly dry the inside of the spray gun and the air cap to
prevent corrosion.
GUN CLEANING SYSTEMS:
Several waterborne gun cleaners integrate the use of flocculating powder.
This process reduces waste and improves the spray gun cleaning process.
PPG has developed a flocculating agent for the easy and efficient
treatment of wastewater contaminated with waterborne paint residue
during the gun cleaning process. This water waste should NOT be
combined with solventborne waste of any type.
The solid sludge collected from the treatment process is classified as
“Controlled Waste” and should be disposed of in accordance with local
regulations.
RECYCLING:
It is possible to use the filtrate from the flocculating process up to 10 times.
When recycled 10 times, the filtrate must be taken away as waterborne
waste. The filtrate produced from the waste treatment process should be
disposed of following approved local regulations.
OVERVIEW UNDERCOATS OF
THE
INTRODUCTION
Undercoats are used to create
corrosion protection and a foundation
of all repairs. There are four different
types of undercoats, each having
specific characteristics and roles. Some
undercoats share the same catalysts
with other products. This reduces
inventory requirements and still allows
each product to deliver the best overall
performance possible.
PRIMERS AND SURFACERS
76
77
PRIMER CHARACTERISTICS:
Provides adhesion to bare substrates for subsequent coatings
Provides corrosion protection and resistance (sacrificial
pigments) for metal substrates
Does not require sanding
Offers minimal filling properties
PRIMER SURFACER OR PRIMER FILLER CHARACTERISTICS:
Designed to fill sand scratches and small imperfections
Has less sacrificial pigments than dedicated primers
Requires sanding after application
Sands easily and quickly
PRIMER SEALER CHARACTERISTICS:
Provides a uniform foundation and can improve topcoat
appearance over a wide variety of substrates
Optional in most cases, particularly on small spot repairs
DOES NOT require sanding, but can be sanded for a flatter
finish.
Good flow and leveling; less surface texture than primers or
primer surfacers
78
PRIMER FILLER
PROCESS
PD-1510
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
Primer Filler, such as finishing putty or polyester primer, levels and fills minor
imperfections, pinholes and P80 grit sand scratches. Spraying Polyester Primer (VP2100)
will provide a more consistent sanding surface than spreading putty. However, care must be
taken to NOT over-apply the polyester primer.
CHECKPOINT:
Body filler work is completed and car is straight.
Body filler is finished with P120 grit and blown clean.
All bare metal areas are covered with epoxy primer. VP2100 Polyester Primer should not
be applied over bare metal, only over epoxy primer, fiberglass, or body fillers.
Epoxy primer has dried overnight.
1 Clean the area thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean towels.
Dry completely.
2 a. Mix and apply finishing putty over the filler and ENTIRE REPAIR AREA—paint-edge to
paint-edge or entire panel.
OR
b. Apply 3 coats of VP2100 Polyester Primer to a maximum of 6 mils. Avoid reverse
body lines, belt lines or any tight areas that the filler can bridge and over-build. These
areas should be sanded down thoroughly or reverse-taped to avoid excessive build of
polyester.
3 Apply dry Guide Coat over putty or polyester primer. Block sand with P100 grit or finer
sandpaper (P120-180 grit is a good start). Use a long block in a crossing pattern until
guide coat is removed from all low spots, sand scratches and pinholes. If more fill is
needed, reapply and re-block. The goal is to have a level panel without large
sand-throughs.
4 Finish sand with P220-240 grit if next step is Primer Surfacer.
Finish sand with P320-400 grit if next step is Primer Sealer.
5 Ready for Primer Surfacer PD-1520 or Primer Sealer PD-1701.
79
SPRAYABLE PRIMER
SURFACER PROCESS
PD-1520
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
Primer Surfacer is considered the final prime. In the restoration process, this stage is
designed to fill P220-240 grit sand scratches and provide a uniform foundation for paint.
The filler and polyester primers are too porous for painting over directly. A urethane
primer surfacer yields a better surface for paint without the need for a primer sealer.
1 Scuff sand all recessed areas and panel edges with red scuff pad for adhesion of primer
surfacer.
2 Clean the area to be primed thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean
towels. Dry completely.
3 Mask as necessary to protect vehicle from overspray.
4 Apply 2-3 coats of Primer Surfacer.
a. If not using primer sealer later, use the recommended shade of gray
surfacer.
b. Evenly apply medium wet coats. DO NOT DRY SPRAY.
c. Allow each coat of primer surfacer to dry 10-15 minutes before
applying the next coat.
This prevents trapping solvents and shrinkage of the primer.
5 Clean spray gun immediately following the application of the final coat of primer.
6 Force dry the primer surfacer or allow to air dry according to the PDS
recommendations.
7 Ready for Sanding Primer Surfacer PD-1590.
MP246
OMNI MP246 is a fast drying gray, twocomponent, high-build polyester primer with
excellent filling properties that can be used over
a wide variety of substrates. MP246 is lead and
chromate free and is ideal for use in areas
where VOC compliance is required.
Polyester primer is a great product for
use over bare fiberglass and epoxy. With
its high solids content, there’s minimal
shrinkage and very desirable sanding
characteristics. It’s a “go-to” primer for
achieving laser-straight panels and a
show car-quality finish.
For more information on this
product, refer to OB-64.
OMNI® Polyester Primer
80
81
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
AIR DRY 1.5 HRS 70ºF
RECOAT 5-10 MINS 70ºF
FORCE DRY 15-20 MINS 140ºF
1.8-2.5 mm
45-60 mins
POT LIFE 70ºF
29-40 psi
Add 1 oz. of MEKP primer hardener
per quart of MP246 Polyester Primer
or 4 oz. MEKP per gallon of MP246.
DPS305X
Deltron NXT DPS305X is a premiumquality primer surfacer available in White
(3051), Gray (3055) and Dark Gray (3057).
It’s ideally suited for restoration work and
day-to-day repairs performed in today’s
body shops.
DPS305X offers excellent adhesion,
film build, surface leveling and gloss
holdout over a wide range of substrates.
Quick drying, easy to apply and sand,
this versatile primer may be applied
as a conventional spray filler or primer
surfacer.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-238.
DELTRON® NXT Acrylic Urethane Primer
82
83
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
4
1
1
DPS305X
DCX3030
DT8XX
AIR DRY OVERNIGHT 70ºF
RECOAT 5 MINS 70ºF
1.6-1.8 mm
40-45 psi
3O-60 mins
POT LIFE 70ºF
SURFACER (optional)
30 MINS
FORCE DRY
(PRIMER SURFACER)
140ºF
DO NOT FORCE DRY
(PRIMER FILLER)
ECP SERIES
A-Chromatic surfacers are premium,
low VOC primer surfacers for use with
ENVIROBASE® HIGH PERFORMANCE
basecoat. Available in three colors,
ECP11 White, ECP15 Gray and ECP17
Black, they can be intermixed to create
different shades of gray.
A-Chromatic surfacers offer excellent
adhesion, film build, surface leveling
and gloss holdout over a wide range of
substrates. Quick drying and easy to apply
and sand, this quality undercoat may be
used as a conventional spray filler or
primer surfacer.
For more information on these
products, refer to EB-100.
A-Chromatic Surfacers
84
85
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
4
1
1
ECP1X
EH391
D87XX
DT18XX
AIR DRY 90 MINS 68ºF
RECOAT 5-10 MINS 70ºF
1.6–1.8 mm
29-40 psi
3O-60 mins
POT LIFE 68ºF
SURFACER OPTION
30 MINS
FORCE DRY
140ºF
86
OPTIONAL USE
OF SEALER
PD-1530
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
Using sealer in the final sanding process has proven to produce flatter paint jobs, less
orange peel and better gloss, especially on areas that are difficult to sand and polish,
such as door jambs, under hoods, and deck lids.
Sealer has a higher level of resin than primers and primer surfacers. This results in a
harder surface for the topcoat to be applied over, resulting in a better gloss. PPG sealers
also offer recommended shades of gray (G-shades), from G1 white to G7 dark gray, which
will help achieve the desired color.
1 Finish sand polyester primer or urethane primer surfacer with P400 grit sandpaper.
2 Select the recommended G1 - G7 shade of gray sealer for the color that will be applied.
3 Clean sanded area with the appropriate PPG cleaner to remove all sanding dust.
4 Apply 2-3 coats of sealer.
Allow each coat of sealer to flash to a uniformly dull appearance before
applying the next coat.
Let sealer dry overnight.
5 Prep for Single Stage: Apply dry guide coat and final sand sealer with a block or sanding
pad using wet or dry P400-600 grit sandpaper.
Ready for Single Stage, refer to PD-1720.
OR
Prep for Waterborne basecoat: Apply dry guide coat and finish sand with a block or
sanding pad using wet or dry P600-800 grit sandpaper.
Ready for Waterborne Basecoat, refer to PD-1710.
OR
Prep for Solvent Basecoat: Apply dry guide coat and final sand sealer with a block or
sanding pad using wet or dry P500-600 grit sandpaper. Ready for Solvent Basecoat,
refer to PD-1715.
REMEMBER to plan on painting after the final sand. Do not allow sanded sealer to stand
for more than 24 hours before applying color. If sanded sealer sits for more than 24
hours, re-clean, sand and clean again before painting.
87
DIRECT-TO-METAL
(DTM) SEAM SEALER—
RESTORATION
PD-1563M
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
When restoring vehicles that have been stripped to bare metal, it is important to reseal all
seams. Door panels will start to rust if not sealed properly with seam sealer. Primer is not
enough to keep water from seeping into the seams and starting rust between panels. Brushable
seam sealer is designed for all general-purpose automotive sealing over bare metal seams.
1 Remove all coating from both surfaces to expose bare metal.
2 Clean all exposed bare metal with 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
3 Insert 3M™ 8310 DTM Seam Sealer into Applicator gun, remove the end cap, and
equalize the cartridge. Attach mixing nozzle and retaining collar and discard a small
amount of sealer.
4 Apply 3M™ 8310 DTM Seam Sealer to exposed seam. Tool, brush, or form to achieve
desired appearance.
Do NOT apply over any primers and do NOT apply directly over welds.
When applying 3M™ 8310 DTM Seam Sealer over existing seam sealer, make sure
existing sealer is sanded with P80 grit and seam is cleaned.
5 Allow to cure at least 15 minutes at 70°F before priming or painting.
88
PINCHWELD
PRIMING PROCESS
PD-0570
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
A two-component epoxy primer must be used on bare metal areas of pinchwelds when
installing stationary glass using urethane repair materials. If corrosion is present or if
sheet metal repairs or metal replacement are required, the pinchweld flange must be
primed in order to restore the strength of the bonding area.
1 Perform all necessary metal repairs to pinchweld areas on roof, pillar and other panels
where stationary glass will be installed.
2 Final sand all bare metal and body filler areas with P180 grit using a DA sander.
Do not apply body filler to pinchweld area.
3 Final sand and featheredge all adjacent painted areas with P320 grit on a DA sander.
4 Clean the area to be primed thoroughly with the appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean
towels. Dry completely.
5 Mask as necessary to protect vehicle from overspray.
6 Apply epoxy primer to the repair area allowing each coat to flash to a uniformly dull
appearance before applying the next coat.
7 Allow the epoxy primer to air dry according to the PDS. Do not force dry.
REMEMBER to mask off primed pinchweld area BEFORE color and clearcoat application.
Windshield adhesive must only be applied to a clean, epoxy primed surface.
89
SANDING PRIMER
SURFACER
PD-1590
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
IMPORTANT—If you are not ready to paint, do NOT sand. Sanded primer that sits for
days can become contaminated. When you’re ready: sand, clean and paint.
If you intend to wet sand the primer surfacer, you should paint within 24 hours. After 24
hours, re-sanding or re-scuffing is required since two-component primers may have
case hardened.
1 Apply dry guide coat primed area for final sanding.
2 Block sand the entire area with P320 grit using a flat sanding block to remove the
dry guide coat. Clean with an appropriate PPG cleaner. Ready for wet-on-wet sealer
application. Refer to PD-1701.
OPTIONS
Sealer as Final Prime: Sealer has more resin than surfacer to create a harder surface
to paint. This inhibits the solvent from penetrating into the undercoats and leads to
better gloss of the final finish. Refer to PD-1530 for more information.
Prep for Single-Stage Color without Sealer: Reapply dry guide coat. Using a flat
sanding block and P400 grit sandpaper, remove the dry guide coat. Ready for PD-1720.
Prep for Waterborne Basecoat Color without Sealer: Reapply dry guide coat. Using a
flat sanding block and P600-800 grit sandpaper, remove the dry guide coat. Hand sand
edges using gray scuff pads. Ready for PD-1710.
Prep for Solvent Basecoat Color without Sealer: Reapply dry guide coat. Using a flat
sanding block and P500-600 grit sandpaper, remove the dry guide coat. Hand sand
edges using gray scuff pads. Ready for PD-1715.
NOTE: If dry guide coat remains in low areas or if body filler is exposed, then additional
primer surfacer must be applied. If bare metal is exposed, epoxy primer must be
applied to bare metal area for corrosion protection, then primer surfacer may be
reapplied.
3 Blow away sanding dust while wiping with a clean cloth. Clean all panels with the
appropriate PPG cleaner, using clean cloths to dry thoroughly. Tack off all panels.
90
RECOGNITION
THE
OFPIGMENT
INTRODUCTION
Choosing a color for your custom or
restoration is a big decision, so it’s wise
to start the selection process early. This
will give you and those involved time to
get comfortable with the color choice or
make a change, if necessary.
A color choice isn’t necessarily a permanent
decision, but there can be a substantial penalty
in time and cost of materials to make a change
late in the game. So be sure to take the necessary
time to review your color options early on so your
ultimate selection isn’t rushed or regretted.
COLOR IDENTIFICATION
90
91
CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOR
When it gets down to it, there are two basic options when choosing a
color for your vehicle:
1. Restore the vehicle to its original color by selecting the OEM
color formula for that year and make.
2. Select a color according to your taste, whether it's a factory
original of any make, or a custom color.
Keep in mind that the safest choices are black, white, gray, dark
blue, red, etc.
If the plan is to resell, it is usually best to stick with the original
color, or more traditional colors, such as black, white, gray, dark
blue or red.
COLOR TIPS
Dark colors make cars appear smaller and light colors make cars
appear larger.
It is difficult to make the color decision based on a chip from a
book or variant deck. It’s best to spray out the color(s) on larger
panels or car parts for a better verification that the color selected
is the final choice (see next page on creating a sprayout).
For period-accurate restorations, use solid colors or formulas
for metallic finishes of older vehicles. Newer pearls and metallic
colors won’t depict the correct appearance because they are too
chromatic and sparkle too much in the sunlight.
COLOR TRENDS
Get current on which colors are popular by:
Checking out dealerships for new car colors (both domestic and
import)
Attending Goodguys events and other car shows
Reading classic car magazines
92
MAKING A
SPRAYOUT CARD
PD-1631
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Obtain OEM color code for vehicle. Reference a color chip book or wall poster for color
code locations on various vehicles.
2 Look up OEM color code using PPG Color Tools to find the color formula number. Note
any variant colors available.
3 Check variant colors using PPG Chromatic Color Deck. When evaluating color match,
use natural sunlight, color-corrected lights, or 3M™ PPS™ SUN GUN™ and view under
equal gloss levels. Choose prime or variant color with best match.
4 Mix color—Once desired color is verified, mix a small amount of basecoat color on the
scale–enough to make a sample and a few sprayout cards.
5 Apply 2-4 coats on the correct G-shade sprayout card until the desired color is achieved.
Apply clearcoat and allow to dry.
NOTE: For proper color evaluation, all sprayouts should be clearcoated.
6 Check the sprayout card under natural sunlight, color-corrected light or 3M™ PPS™ SUN
GUN™ to verify color match. Always compare the sprayout at 90° (face or head-on) and
at angles between 20-60° (side tone) to the car.
7 When desired color match is verified, mix enough basecoat color for the
entire paint job.
8
File sprayout card in PPG sprayout card binder DOX44 or other suitable filing system for
future reference.
93
TRI-COAT COLOR
LETDOWN PANEL
PD-1660
5 COATS OF MIDCOAT
4 COATS OF MIDCOAT
3 COATS OF MIDCOAT
2 COATS OF MIDCOAT
1 COAT OF MIDCOAT
APPLY BASE TO
ENTIRE PANEL
CLEARCOAT ONLY HALF THE PANEL TO
HIGHLIGHT DIFFERENCES IN MIDCOAT.
MASK OFF 5 HORIZONTAL SECTIONS OF THE PANEL.
APPLY 5 COATS OF MIDCOAT TO ENTIRE PANEL, REMOVING
1 SECTION OF MASKING AFTER EACH COAT.
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
Use these steps to determine the amount of pearl or tinted mid-coats that will be needed to
achieve the desired color.
1 Obtain OEM Color Code and look up the code using PPG’s color tools.
2 Note any variant colors available. Use PPG Variant Deck to check variant color chips
against the area to be painted on the vehicle. Choose the prime or variant formula that
aligns best with the desired color.
3 Prepare the tri-coat letdown panel as shown below. Apply the recommended shades of
gray sealer for ground coat color to the letdown panel first.
4 Use the panel to determine the number of coats of midcoat color required to achieve
the desired color.
94
APPLICATION
PAINT OF
THE
INTRODUCTION
Once the color has been chosen and the
bodywork is complete, the next step is
creating your final finish. It begins with
choosing your paint system, then paying
close attention to its recommended
application procedures. Do so, and all
those hours of sanding, prepping and
bodywork will pay off with a fantastic
paint finish you’ll be proud to show off at
your next cruise-in.
SEALER, SINGLE STAGE, BASECOAT, CLEARCOAT
94
95
SEALER
Whether or not to apply a sealer is an important decision to make before
applying the paint finish. Unfortunately there is no simple answer. Often
referred to as a “barrier coat,” a sealer is great for ensuring a uniform
topcoat color and for sealing up any minor post-prime bodywork. It also
maximizes adhesion of the topcoat with minimal shrinkage.
Keep in mind, however, that since a sealer isn’t normally sanded, it will
leave more texture. A better option could be to finish sand your primer
surfacer with P600 grit and move directly to color application.
Sanding the sealer with P600-P800 grit once the sealer is completely
dry is another option. This will provide the uniformity benefits of a sealer
with nearly the same finish quality of a sanded primer surfacer.
SINGLE-STAGE COLOR
As its name implies, a single-stage (direct gloss) topcoat provides the
desired color, gloss and film build all in one. It is a good choice for solid
colors, as well as for mimicking metallic finishes of older-era vehicles.
Two-component acrylic urethane technology provides better durability
than the single-stage acrylic enamels of yesteryear.
BASECOAT-CLEARCOAT
Introduced in the early ‘80s, basecoat-clearcoat is now used for the
overwhelming majority of today’s new car finishes—for good reason.
By applying a clearcoat over the basecoat color, the finish will keep
its glossy, “wet look” longer than a single-stage and require less
maintenance. Metallics and pearl coats can also be more sophisticated
and applied more evenly. A basecoat-clearcoat system is also the best
choice when applying multiple colors and graphics.
CHOOSING YOUR
PAINT SYSTEM
96
SEALER
APPLICATION PROCESS
PD-1701
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Sealer application is an optional step. If you choose to apply sealer,
finish sand with P320-P400 grit.
2 Mask vehicle appropriately. If masking door jambs, etc., that have already been painted,
be aware that the first coat of sealer will travel farther into the jamb than the color coats
that follow. This will leave an undesired sealer edge.
To minimize this effect, mask jambs for color application. Mask a second time, closer
to the edge for sealer application. After sealer is applied, remove this masking before
applying color and clearcoats.
3 Select the recommended G1 - G7 shade of gray sealer for the color that will be applied.
4 Clean area to be sealed with the appropriate PPG cleaner, and dry with clean towels. The
use of a tack cloth is recommended to remove any final dust.
5 Apply sealer. Refer to PD 1530 for specific application instructions.
6 Allow each coat of sealer to flash to a uniformly dull appearance before
applying the next coat.
7 Clean spray gun immediately following the application of the final coat of sealer.
8
Allow the sealer to air dry according to the PDS recommendations
before applying basecoat.
97
DAS302X
Deltron NXT DAS302X is a premium
quality primer sealer available in White
(3021), Gray (3025) and Dark Gray (3027).
This advanced technology is ideal for
preventing solvent from being trapped in
the substrate and providing the best in
topcoat performance.
Deltron NXT Acrylic Urethane Sealers
are fast-drying and offer superior flow
properties and gloss holdout. They can be
used directly over unsanded OEM e-coat,
sanded finishes or over properly prepared
and treated bare steel, fiberglass and
plastic parts.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-237.
Deltron NXT Acrylic Urethane Sealer
98
99
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
3
1
1
DAS302X
DCX3030
DT8XX
TAPE TIME 90 MINS 70ºF
RECOAT 10 MINS 70ºF
TOPCOAT 15 MINS 70ºF
1.3-1.6 mm
29-40 psi
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
DO NOT FORCE DRY
ECS Series
A-Chromatic sealers are premium-quality,
wet-on-wet sealers specifically for use under
Envirobase High Performance waterborne
basecoat. Fast drying with superior flow and
excellent color holdout, they are available in
black, gray and white, which can be intermixed
for a variety of shades.
A-Chromatic sealers are available in both
compliant and National Rule versions.
ECS2X series sealers are 2.1 VOC
compliant and ECS6X series sealers have
a VOC of 2.8 when mixed with compliant
thinners.
For more information on this
product, refer to EB-200.
A-Chromatic Sealers
100
101
4
1
1
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
ECS2X
EH391
EH392
D87X
DT8XX
FLASH OFF
5-10 MINS 68ºF
RECOAT
15-30 MINS 70ºF
1.4–1.6 mm
29–40 psi
60 mins
POT LIFE 70ºF
National Rule; see tech sheets
for compliant and Canada.
30 MINS
FORCE DRY
140ºF
102
BASECOAT COLOR
APPLICATION—
WATERBORNE
PD-1710
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Verify color by preparing a sprayout card following PD-1631, Identify Color Formula, and
confirm the number of coats required to achieve color match and the correct G-shade of
primer and/or sealer.
2 Ensure that all panels to be painted have been prepared according to directions in
PD-1590, Sanding Primer Surfacer.
3 Apply waterborne basecoat color (reference PDS for more information).
a. Apply the number of coverage coats as indicated by the sprayout card.
Flash-off with air amplifiers until uniformly matte in appearance.
b. Apply 1-2 control coats (reducing PSI, using an 85-90% overlap and
increasing gun distance from panel) over the entire basecoat area.
4 Flash-off the waterborne basecoat color using air movement equipment to achieve a
uniformly matted appearance.
Use this time to mix the clearcoat and prepare the spray gun for the clearcoat application.
IMPORTANT—Waterborne basecoat color can be de-nibbed between coats by DRY
sanding with P600-800 grit sandpaper. DO NOT USE WET/ DRY SANDPAPER. Two coats
of color should be applied over sanded areas when spraying metallic or pearl colors to
hide any sand scratches. Do not use solvent or water as a sanding lubricant.
IMPORTANT—Waterborne basecoat colors cannot be wiped down at any time with a
solvent or waterborne cleaner.
Only use tack rags made for waterborne basecoats to clean before applying clearcoat.
5 Follow with the clearcoat application process as outlined in PD-1730.
103
APPLYING
MULTIPLE BASECOAT
COLORS—WATERBORNE
PD-1712
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Verify colors by preparing sprayout cards, referring to PD-1631 Identify Color Formula.
Confirm the number of coats required to achieve color matches and the correct G-shade
of primer surfacer and/or sealer.
2 Apply waterborne basecoat color. Refer to PD-1710 for more information.
3 Two-tones, custom painting, and multiple colors:
Use T490 / VWM5556 as an intercoat clear to protect basecoat by mixing as engine bay.
Reference Internal Repair / Engine Bay PDS for more information.
Any waterborne tint, color or blending clear can be converted this way.
4 Spray 2 – 3 wet coats, force dry 60 minutes at 120º or air dry overnight at 70º.
Sand dry with P800 grit dry or with light gray scuff pad.
5 Tape over T490 / VWM5556 clear and spray additional waterborne colors. The converted
clear protects basecoat color if any paint blows through. It can easily be wiped off with
solvent or waterborne cleaners without damaging the basecoat color underneath.
6 Waterborne basecoat color can be clearcoated 15 minutes after the last coat has dried.
For better results, let dry overnight but not longer than 24 hours.
NOTE—If a wait longer than 24 hours is possible, T490 / VWM5556 should be used and
then sanded before clearcoat application.
7 Since T490 / VWM5556 was converted to Engine Bay, it can be wiped with cleaners
after drying.
8
Follow with the clearcoat application process described in PD-1730.
ENVIROBASE
HIGH PERFORMANCE
The Envirobase High Performance paint system is the
premier waterborne system in North America. Keeping
pace with the latest color trends and effects, this
advanced basecoat is the best technology available for
accurately reproducing solid, metallic or mica paint
finishes of virtually all OEM manufacturers worldwide.
Waterborne basecoat differs from
solventborne, and likely will require
modifications to your existing equipment,
such as a dedicated waterborne spray
gun. The drying process also differs
in that flash times are enhanced by
creating turbulent air flow across the wet
waterborne basecoat surface.
For more information on this
product, refer to EB-143.
104
Waterborne Basecoat
105
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
1
10-20%
BY VOLUME*
EHP
T494
T595
RECOAT 2 MINS AIR DRY
TOPCOAT 15 MINS 70ºF
1.2-1.4 mm
25-31 psi
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
23-28 sec VISCOSITY
IF ACTIVATED
USE PROPER
AIR DRYING
EQUIPMENT
*REDUCTION CALCULATION
DEPENDENT UPON WHETHER
PAINT IS SOLID OR METALLIC.
106
BASECOAT COLOR
APPLICATION—SOLVENT
PD-1715
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Verify color by preparing a sprayout card following PD-1631, Identify Color Formula
to confirm the correct number of coats needed to achieve color match and the correct
G-shade of primer surfacer and/or sealer.
2 Ensure that all panels to be painted have been prepared according to process document
PD-1590, Sanding Primer Surfacer.
3 Apply solvent basecoat color (reference PDS for more information).
a. Apply the number of coats as indicated by the sprayout card.
Follow PDS directions regarding flash time and other application guidelines.
b. Basecoat activator may be added to improve durability and repairability
characteristics. Use should be consistent throughout basecoat
application.
c. Once color is achieved, color blenders can be used in final coats if needed
for metallic control.
IMPORTANT—Solvent basecoat color can be de-nibbed between coats by sanding with
P600-P800 grit sandpaper. Use the appropriate PPG cleaner as a sanding lubricant if
needed. When spraying metallic or pearl colors, 2 coats of color should be applied over
sanded areas to hide any sand scratches.
4 Follow with the clearcoat application process as outlined in PD-1730.
107
SOLVENT BASECOAT
ADDITIONAL TIPS
REDUCER SELECTION
Reducers in solvent basecoat should be selected according to the
temperature of the environment in which the vehicle is sprayed.
Selecting slower solvents will result in a smoother finish, better
metallic orientation and better drying of the basecoat. Faster solvents
will flash off the surface too quickly and may lead to mottling, poor
drying characteristics for taping and die-back in clearcoats. Be sure
to check the temperature ranges for the reducers available with the
solvent basecoat you're using.
BASECOAT TIMING
Basecoat can be cleared in 20 minutes air dry for 3 coats.
REMEMBER with more coats of basecoat, longer dry times will yield
better gloss and less chance of die-back in the clearcoat. An overnight
dry will provide better results when more than 3 coats of base are
applied.
If you apply 2 wet coats of basecoat blender before 24 hours expire, you
can extend clearcoat time another 24 hours.
Color blenders can be used as a inter-coat clear for two-tones, custom
painting and multiple colors. This will protect the basecoat color from
tape marking and paint blow through, as well as protect any artwork.
When adding basecoat activator to any color containing dyes, all
basecoats must be applied in 1 hour at 70 degrees, otherwise lifting
can occur.
BASECOAT
PPG's Deltron NXT Basecoat is a
state-of-the-art, premium quality basecoat
system. Deltron NXT has been a longtime paint
of choice of today’s leading custom painters
and builders.
Deltron NXT basecoats offer excellent
color match and coverage, while
maintaining outstanding adhesion to PPG
undercoats. With a wide variety of colors
and special effects available, Deltron NXT
basecoats are an excellent choice for that
one-off color that will leave everyone's
jaws dropped at your next cruise-in event.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-251.
108
Deltron NXT
109
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
1
1
5%
NXT
DT15XX
DX57
1.2-1.4 mm
29-40 psi
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
per RTS (optional)
WITH DX57
TAPE TIME 70ºF
STANDARD REDUCTION: 20-40 MINS
WITH DX57: 30-60 MINS
STANDARD REDUCTION: 5-10 MINS
WITH DX57: 10-15 MINS
If dried longer
than 24 hours, it
must be scuffed
and reapplied. RECOAT 70ºF
TOPCOAT 15 MINS 70ºF
110
SINGLE-STAGE
COLOR OVERVIEW
Automotive single-stage paint has been around since the beginning
of the automotive era. For many years, it was the best available paint
technology. Today’s urethane single-stage colors are more attractive,
more durable, and longer lasting than older technologies.
Single-stage paint is often preferred for the blackest black paint jobs.
Reds, whites and many other solid colors are popular choices. Singlestage metallic colors can be tricky to spray since it can be difficult to
achieve good gloss and metallic control.
Single-stage paint should be sprayed in wet coats—appearing like the
finished appearance you desire.
Single-stage colors perform two roles—color and gloss. Their
formulas have more resin than basecoat colors. Occasionally, singlestage coats do not cover as quickly as a basecoat color might.
Single-stage colors do NOT require clearcoat, however when
clearcoat is added to the color or applied over the color,
buffing becomes much easier.
111
USE OF CLEARCOAT
OPTION 1:
Once color coverage has been achieved as indicated by your sprayout
card, you're ready for a compatible clearcoat that uses the same
hardeners (refer to Single-Stage PDS). Reduce the clearcoat per its PDS
recommended RTS mix, and add it to the RTS Single-Stage color at a 1:1
ratio. Apply 2-3 wet coats. The finish will polish much better and will not
affect the color.
Combine clear with single-stage color for the final two coats. This is the
preferred method, and best for polishing.
OPTION 2:
Once color coverage has been achieved, allow proper dry time and then
apply two wet coats of a compatible clearcoat. This may change color
slightly and require more work than applying a basecoat/clearcoat with
the same basic results.
Single-stage color can be clearcoated. Apply clearcoat within 24 hours
of single-stage application.
112
SINGLE-STAGE
COLOR APPLICATION
PD-1720
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Single-Stage colors are designed to be applied over properly cleaned and sanded 2K
primer surfacers or 2K primer sealers. Finish sand primer surfacer with P400-600 grit
sandpaper. Sealers can be sanded with P600 grit sandpaper if desired or topcoated
wet-on-wet. Select the proper G-shade undercoat to achieve proper color match and
coverage.
2 Single-Stage color has several options for mixing. Typically, general-purpose hardeners
dry quicker and are easier to polish. Mar-resistant hardeners are slower but will provide
the best gloss before polishing.
3 Single-Stage is sprayed in wet coats similar to a clearcoat application. Follow the PDS
recommendations for flash, air dry and bake times.
Apply 2-3 coats to achieve proper coverage and hiding. Apply 2 additional coats if you
plan to flat sand and polish, allowing adequate flash time between coats.
4 Single-Stage color can also be sanded after 3 coats have been applied. After a minimum
eight hours dry time, flat sand with P600 grit sandpaper.
a. Apply 2 more coats of color.
OR
b. Apply 1 coat of color, followed by 2 coats of color/clearcoat mix
(see Option 2 below).
5 OPTION #1: Combine clear with single-stage color for the final two coats. This is the
preferred method, and best for polishing.
OPTION #2: Single-stage color can be clearcoated. Apply clearcoat within 24 hours of
single-stage application.
See single-stage PDS for recommended clears and mix ratios.
6 Single-stage usually can be polished 24 hours after application. However it will polish
best when Clearcoat is added to the single-stage color and allowed to dry for 7 days.
Single-stage can be sanded with P800 grit sandpaper after 8 hours dry time. Let the
remaining solvent evaporate before polishing.
113
114
DCC
DCC is a premium, twocomponent, single-stage topcoat
designed to offer exceptional gloss
and color match.
DCC is an excellent choice for any
restoration project that involves a solid
color. Since this direct gloss topcoat
doesn’t need to be clearcoated, the color
will have a more intense hue. However,
if it is decided to "flow coat" the singlestage color will still remain vibrant and
have much greater strength and mar
resistance.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-168.
Deltron NXT Acrylic Urethane
115
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
MIXING RATIO
4
1
2
DCC
DCX61
DT8XX
1.3-1.6 mm
29-40 psi
1-3 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
AIR DRY 6-8 HOURS 70ºF
RECOAT 15 MINS 70ºF
40 MINS
FORCE DRY
140ºF
ESSS911678
Factory Package Flat Black is a low gloss,
single-stage polyurethane enamel offering a
smooth, satin, deep black finish popular with
today’s custom painters.
Factory Package Flat Black is VOC
compliant for all regions. Eliminating
the need to mix a color formula, this
premixed product saves time and
improves productivity.
For more information on this
product, refer to DFE-20.
Factory Package Flat Black
116
DELFLEET ESSENTIAL®
117
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
6
1
1
ESSS911678
ESH200
5XX
1.3-1.7 mm
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
AIR DRY
60-90 MINS 70ºF
BETWEEN COATS
5-10 MINS 70ºF
30 MINS
FORCE DRY
140ºF
* psi
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
118
CLEARCOAT OVERVIEW
Clearcoat technology has come a long way since the late '70s at
the introductory of basecoat clearcoat. The benefits of a clearcoat
layer being applied over a color layer are many. Clearcoat improves
gloss, distinction of image, durability and protection from harmful UV
radiation.
For the purposes of this discussion, clearcoats fall into three
categories:
Midcoat clears PD-1725
General Clearcoats PD-1730
Specialty clearcoats PD-1735
Midcoat clears can be thought of as clear basecoat. It allows for the use
of effect pigments such as pearls and dyes to be used to enhance the
overall impact of the finished product.
General clearcoats are the final piece of the basecoat clearcoat puzzle.
They provide the final protection and gloss.
Specialty clearcoats offer unique benefits for the job at hand. Clearcoats
that offer a matte finish fall under this category.
119
MIDCOAT CLEAR
APPLICATION
PD-1725
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
Midcoat clears are products specifically designed to be used as a tool to create custom candy or pearl layers
over waterborne or solventborne basecoat. Allows painters to create multiple color layers using special-effect
pigments and dyes and can also be used as a lockdown clear to isolate graphics, especially when the custom
finish is performed over an extended period of time. For durability and appearance, midcoat clears must be
clearcoated with a general clearcoat. Midcoat clears are not intended for use as a stand-alone clearcoat.
1 Allow basecoat to flash an appropriate amount of time before applying midcoat layers.
Ensure waterborne basecoat is thoroughly dehydrated before applying the midcoat layer.
NOTE: The preparation of a midcoat letdown panel is recommended prior to applying
midcoat layers to your project. Refer to PD-1660 for Letdown Panel preparation
instructions.
2 Apply 2-4 medium coats until the desired effect is achieved, allowing sufficient flashtime
between coats.
As a lockdown clear, apply 1-2 medium coats, allowing sufficient flashtime between
coats.
3 The midcoat layer must be clearcoated within 24 hours. After 24 hours, a light scuff and
another midcoat layer must be applied before clearcoat.
4 Proceed with Clearcoat Application Procedures PD-1730 or PD-1735.
120
VWM500
VWM500 Custom Midcoat allows painters to
create multiple color layers over waterborne
basecoat using Vibrance Collection specialeffect pigments and dyes. It can also be used
as a lockdown clear to isolate graphics.
VWM500 is fast drying, easy to apply,
and is an essential tool for having full
range, VOC-compliant capability in
creating show-stopping, eye-catching
custom finishes.
For more information on this
product, refer to VB-22 and
VB22NR.
VIBRANCE COLLECTION® Custom Midcoat
120
121
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
1
1
5%
VWM500
DT8XX
DX57
1.1-1.5 mm
29-40 psi
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
per RTS (optional)
WITH DX57
TAPE TIME 60 MINS 70ºF
If dried longer
than 24 hours, it
must be scuffed
and reapplied. BETWEEN COATS
10 MINS 70ºF
TOPCOAT 15 MINS 70ºF
122
VWM5556
VWM5556 Waterborne Midcoat is specifically
designed for use with waterborne basecoat. It
provides a midcoat layer that can be used to
isolate graphics. It can be tinted with waterborne
basecoat, powdered pearls or specialty flakes to
create custom colors.
VWM5556 is ideal for taking advantage
of Vibrance Collection special effects
options and create VOC-compliant,
waterborne custom finishes.
For more information on this
product, refer to VB-15.
VIBRANCE COLLECTION Waterborne Midcoat
122
123
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
4
1
VWM5556
T494/T595
AIR DRY + TAPE TIME
15-30 MIN 70ºF
BETWEEN COATS
2-5 MINS 70ºF
Converted - See PDS
FORCE DRY
20 MINS
140ºF
1.2-1.4 mm
* psi
90 days
POT LIFE 70ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
124
DBC500
DBC500 is a solventborne midcoat
designed to be used specifically with
Deltron NXT basecoat. It can be tinted with
Deltron NXT color, tri-coat pearls and light
or hard-to-control metallics.
DBC500 may be used as a fast-drying
cut-in clear for Deltron NXT color in
areas that are not exposed to direct
sunlight. All exposed areas must be
clearcoated.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-176.
Color Blender
124
Deltron NXT
125
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
1
1
5%
DBC500
DT8XX
DX57
1.3-1.6 mm
29-40 psi
2 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
per RTS (optional)
WITH DX57
TAPE TIME 60 MINS 70ºF
If dried longer
than 24 hours, it
must be scuffed
and reapplied. BETWEEN COATS
10 MINS 70ºF
TOPCOAT 15 MINS 70ºF
126
CLEARCOAT
APPLICATION
PD-1730
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
IMPORTANT Custom and restoration shops often apply a minimum of 4-5 coats of clear, while
collision repair shops typically apply only 2-3 coats. Custom jobs with multiple colors may
require the clearcoat process to be repeated 3 times or more to level out the paint edges.
Avoid applying 5 or more heavy coats of clear at one time. The dry time will
be considerably slower. See Slow Coat Process, Step 3, for the proper steps
when applying a large number of coats.
Reducer and hardener selections play a critical role. The slower choices will
lead to better results.
1 Allow basecoat to flash an appropriate amount of time before beginning the clearcoat
application process. This provides more time for the basecoat reducer to evaporate
and minimizes the risk that the reducer will get trapped under the clearcoat and create
hazing or dieback.
2 Apply 2-3 wet coats of clearcoat to the entire vehicle according to the directions found
in the PDS. Allow proper flash time between coats. Each coat should appear like a
final coat. Too light of an application between coats may lead to lifting. Waiting too long
between coats may lead to increased texture (orange peel).
3 FLOW COAT PROCESS: There are occasions where it is necessary to apply multiple
layers of clear. Burying graphics is one example. It’s recommended that desired film
build be achieved by multiple applications rather than by multiple coats in a single
application.
1) Apply 3-4 coats of clear, each appearing like a final coat. Dry overnight.
2) Flat sand with P500-600 grit sandpaper. Use caution on edges and peaks
to avoid cut-throughs.
3) Blow away sanding dust and clean with an appropriate PPG cleaner.
4) Apply an additional 2 coats of the same clear.
5) Dry overnight.
6) If desired clear thickness has been achieved, proceed to #4 below.
Steps 5-6 may be repeated again if additional clearcoat thickness is needed.
4 Proceed with Finished Paint Procedures:
Removing Defects PD-0800M
Buffing and Polishing PD-1805
Final Cleaning and Detail PD-0810M
127
128
DAU75
Introduced into the market in 1975, DAU75 became
an industry leader because of its unique ability to
be applied over a variety of substrates. To this day
DAU75 is the only PPG Refinish clearcoat that offers
recommendations for application over various
metals and wood, making it a perfect choice for
specialty finishes.
For more information on this
product, refer to VB-26.
DELCLEAR® Acrylic Urethane Clear
DAU75 may be applied over:
• Properly treated bare aluminum
(use metal treatments per OC-36)
• Properly treated bare brass
(use metal treatments per OC-36)
• Properly treated bare copper (use
metal treatments per OC-36)
• Wood
128
129
16
1
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
DAU75
DXR80
TAPE TIME
7 HOURS
AIR DRY
16 HOURS
BETWEEN COATS
15-20 MINS
FORCE DRY
40 MINS
140ºF
1.3-1.6 mm
* psi
6 hours
POT LIFE 70ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
130
VC5700
Ditzler Custom Clear is a high build, easyto-apply urethane clearcoat that provides
a deep, high gloss appearance perfect for
a show quality finish.
VC5700 is specifically designed for
custom shops. VC5700 fills tape
lines and graphics, has great vertical
hold and is very easy to polish. It can
also be used as a lockdown clear to
protect and level graphics and provide
a layer to sand prior to flow coating.
For more information on this
product, refer to VB-24 and
VB24NR.
DITZLER® Custom Clear
130
131
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
2
1
1
VC5700
VH7780/95
DT8XX
AIR DRY 12-16 HRS 70ºF
BETWEEN COATS
10-15 MINS 70ºF
FORCE DRY
30 MINS
140ºF
TAPE TIME
12-16 HRS 70ºF
1.3-1.5 mm
* psi
2.5 hrs
POT LIFE 70ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
132
EC550
EC550 is a high gloss overall clearcoat designed specifically for use
with Envirobase High Performance waterborne basecoat. EC550 has
outstanding appearance and gloss retention and is ideal for high
temperature and/or large job applications. This premium clearcoat
continues the easy-to-apply characteristics of the En-V clearcoat
platform and provides a robust application window under extreme
conditions. EC550 En-V Ultra Gloss Clearcoat is available in all
North American refinish markets.
From an environmental standpoint,
the low VOC of EC550 clearcoat along
with the high solids resin decreases
clearcoat material usage and
therefore greatly reduces the overall
VOC emissions.
For more information on this
product, refer to EB-550 and
EB-550NR.
En-V® Ultra Gloss Clearcoat
132
133
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
3
1
1
EC550
ECH5075
D87XX
AIR DRY OVERNIGHT 68ºF
DUST FREE
80-100 MINS 68ºF
FORCE DRY
40 MINS 140ºF
TAPE TIME
6 HRS OR
OVERNIGHT
1.3-1.5 mm
* psi
3 hrs
POT LIFE 70ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
DC5050
DC5050 NXT Premium Glamour
Clearcoat is a premium clear specifically
developed for exceptional gloss, ease
of application, easy buffability and
exceptional holdout.
If you’re seeking the ultimate gloss for
a high-end restoration or show car,
DC5050 is a great choice. It’s especially
ideal if you want to load up on the clear
or if you plan on flow coating. Given its
relatively slow cure time, you don't want
to rush applying this clear, especially if
applying multiple coats.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-254.
NXT Premium Glamour Clearcoat
134
Deltron NXT
135
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
3
1
1
DC5050
DCH30XX
DT15XX
AIR DRY OVERNIGHT 68ºF
FORCE DRY
DCH3070: 20 MINS 140ºF
DCH3085/3095/3098: 30 MINS 140ºF
RECOAT 5-10 MINS 68ºF
1.2-1.5 mm
29-40 psi
4 hours
POT LIFE 68ºF
136
MATTE CLEARCOAT
APPLICATION
PD-1735
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
Matte or flattened clearcoats have grown in popularity in recent years. They offer a unique appearance to any
project and can be used in conjunction with gloss clearcoats to add an accent within a panel.
Variations in temperature and gun set up can affect the final gloss of matte clearcoats. Before
spraying the vehicle, it is recommended that a test panel be sprayed to determine the overall
final appearance.
OPTIONAL: Matte clearcoats may also be applied as a flowcoat over a gloss clearcoat. This
allows the painter to generate a perfectly smooth finish prior to applying the matte clearcoat. In
this case, 2-3 coats of a general clearcoat is applied and allowed to fully cure. It is then sanded
using P600-P800 grit sandpaper to remove all texture. The project must be throughly cleaned
and remasked prior to applying the matte clearcoat as described in steps 1 and 2 below.
1 Allow basecoat to flash an appropriate amount of time before beginning the matte
clearcoat application process. This provides more time for the basecoat reducer to
evaporate and reduces the risk that the reducer will get trapped under the clearcoat.
2 Apply 1 full wet coat and allow to flash off until evenly matte over the entire project.
Apply a second full wet coat followed immediately by a lighter cross coat to ensure a
uniform finish.
3 The final coat must go uniformly matte prior to force dry. To achieve optimal mar
resistance, the vehicle should not be put into service for an additional 4-6 hours after
baking, or 24-48 hour if air dried.
4 Proceed with Final Cleaning Procedures Matte Clearcoat PD-0820M.
137
138
DSC5250
Ditzler Satin Clear is a low gloss custom clear
providing a uniform, low gloss finish. It provides
superior mar resistance and outstanding color
retention. It can be used on accent stripes,
hoods or the entire vehicle.
The DSC5250 Ditzler Satin Clear Kit
provides a durable, two-component,
low gloss finish with a smooth, even
appearance.
For more information on this
product, refer to VB-25 and
VB-25NR.
DITZLER Satin Clear Kit
138
139
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
4
1
1 2 ½
-
VC5250
VH7250
DT8XX
AIR DRY 16-25 HRS 70ºF
BETWEEN COATS
10-15 MINS 70ºF
FORCE DRY
30 MINS 120ºF
45 MIN PURGE
ENSURING THE
CLEARCOAT IS
COMPLETELY MATTE
BEFORE BAKING
RECOAT 16-24 HRS
1.2-1.4 mm
* psi
1 hr
POT LIFE 70ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
140
DC8115/7
The Deltron NXT Matte and Semi-Gloss Clearcoat System
consists of two versatile 2K acrylic urethane clearcoats
designed to reproduce a range of low gloss levels. This
system can be used for the specialized repairs of vehicles or
areas of vehicles originally finished with a low gloss clearcoat
over a single or multistage basecoat color system.
To allow for the normal gloss
variations due to color, model,
position or repair on vehicle etc., the
actual mix of the two clearcoats can
be varied to match the vehicle to be
repaired.
For more information on this
product, refer to P-252.
Matte and Semi-Gloss Clearcoat System
140
Deltron NXT
141
3
1
1½
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
DC8115/7
D8239
D87XX
AIR DRY 24 HRS 68ºF
DUST FREE
45 MINS 68ºF
FORCE DRY
40 MINS 140ºF
15-30 MIN PURGE
ENSURING THE
CLEARCOAT IS
COMPLETELY MATTE
BEFORE BAKING
TAPE TIME
12-16 HRS
1.2-1.4 mm
* psi
1-2 hrs
POT LIFE 68ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
142
EC5515/7
The Envirobase High Performance Matte and Semi-Gloss
Clearcoat System consists of two versatile 2K acrylic urethane
clearcoats designed to reproduce a range of low gloss levels.
This system can be used for the specialized repairs of vehicles
or areas of vehicles originally finished with a low gloss
clearcoat over a single or multistage basecoat color system.
To allow for the normal gloss
variations due to color, model,
position or repair on vehicle etc.,
the actual mix of the two clearcoats
can be varied to match the vehicle
to be repaired.
For more information on this
product, refer to EB-551.
Matte and Semi-Gloss Clearcoat System
142
143
3
1
1
MIXING RATIO
GUN SETUP
DRYING TIMES
EC5515/7
ECH5075
DT1855
AIR DRY 24 HRS 68ºF
DUST FREE
45 MINS 68ºF
FORCE DRY
40 MINS 140ºF
15-30 MIN PURGE
ENSURING THE
CLEARCOAT IS
COMPLETELY MATTE
BEFORE BAKING
TAPE TIME
12-16 HRS
1.2-1.4 mm
* psi
1-2 hrs
POT LIFE 68ºF
FLUID TIP
*Refer to gun manufacturer recommendations
144
COMPLETION
PROJECT OF
THE
INTRODUCTION
In typical collision shops, a panel is
sanded and buffed in 15 minutes or
less. That same panel could take 60-
120 minutes or more if a custom or
restoration shop is looking to achieve a
“show quality” finish. It’s even common
to spend 40 hours on this step alone. So
be patient. It takes time.
FINISHED PAINT PROCEDURES
144
145
FINISHED PAINT OVERVIEW
Clears have a “tail solvent” that evaporates slowly during the 30 days
following application.
As the solvent leaves the clearcoat, buffing gets easier. During
the first week, more solvent is releasing and buffing is difficult
because the surface of the clear film is soft.
As solvent evaporates, buffing gets easier. It is BEST to wait at least 14
days before buffing, depending on the temperature.
However, you can speed up this process by sanding the surface
with P800 grit wet sandpaper as soon as the paint is dry, usually
overnight at 70°F.
This opens the surface and allows the solvent to evaporate faster. Wait a
minimum of 24 hours before buffing. Since the ideal time varies from job
to job based on the temperature and paint film thickness, you can test
a panel to find the optimum time to begin buffing. The test panel should
buff to a deep glossy, scratch-free finish without hazing back overnight.
If you are sanding a paint job with heavy orange peel, you have your
work cut out for you. To achieve a smooth glass finish, it would be better
to flatten the finish with P600 grit and reapply clearcoat (flowcoat). A
smoother paint job will yield a better finish that's easier to buff.
Move vehicle inside. Don’t sand or polish on a hot surface.
Work under adequate lighting to help see what you are working on—a light
stand is helpful for viewing side panels.
Use wet/dry paper and clean water. A hose or squirt bottle is a good idea.
Dirt trapped under sandpaper causes nasty scratches. Use a clean sponge
to keep sandpaper wet, and a clean towel or a squeegee to wipe dry.
Stay off panel edges. Paint flows away from edges, peaks in fenders, etc.,
so the film is thinner and easier to cut/burn through. Use a piece of 1½”
masking tape to help protect them.
146
REMOVING
DEFECTS
PD-0800M
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Wash vehicle with soap and water. Clean with the appropriate PPG cleaner.
2 DUST NIBS:
1. Sand nib with P1500 grit using a finishing DA sander with an interface
backup pad. Visual and hand check area to make sure nib is removed.
2. Refine entire sanded area with P2000-P3000 damp on a DA sander with a
backup pad.
3. Proceed to the compounding procedure below.
RUNS/SAGS:
1. Ensure finish is completely cured.
2. Remove defect using razor blade.
3. Block sand with P1200 grit Wet-or-Dry sandpaper to remove the defect.
4. Refine entire sanded area with P1500 grit using a DA sander with an
interface pad.
5. Refine entire sanded area with damp P2000-P3000 grit on a DA sander
with a backup pad.
6. Proceed to the compounding procedure below.
3 COMPOUNDING: Working in 2’ x 2’ sections, compound the entire vehicle with extra cut
compound using a white foam pad or a wool compounding pad.
4 POLISHING: Polish the entire repair area with a swirl mark remover and a black foam
pad.
5 FINISH: Polish the entire vehicle with ultra-fine glaze and a blue foam pad. Hand wipe
with a clean microfiber towel to finish.
147
BUFFING AND
POLISHING
PD-1805
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 Wash vehicle with soap and water.
2 If you have some orange peel / texture, start with P600-800 grit on a block or hard pad
to smooth / flatten the paint.
3 Sand only enough to take out peel then move onto P1000-1200 grit working toward
P3000 grit sanding in a criss cross pattern.
Sand with P1500–2000 grit. The finer you sand, the less you have to cut with a buffer.
Use 3M™ TRIZACT™ HOOKIT™ P3000 / P5000 foam discs on a DA to help start the buffing
process. Be careful not to let paper dry.
Watch for curlicues—you don’t want them. Lightly sand edges and peaks with P2000-
3000 paper only.
4 Wash and dry the finish, inspecting to insure it’s completely flat sanded. Begin with
a wool pad and cutting compound. Keep buffer moving, bringing up a 2’ x 2’ area to a
scratch-free shine. Then move on to the next section.
Keep buff pad clean. Don’t let excess compound build up and dry on the pad. Take your
time. Use sufficient lighting to help see if you have a scratch-free, smooth surface. If
not, stop and re-sand with P2000-3000 grit and re-polish.
5 Once the finish is buffed with sanding marks and scratches removed, wash the vehicle
to remove any compound residue. Moving slowly in one 2’ x 2’ area at a time, machine
polish with a foam pad. Don’t let polish build up on the pad. Once completed, wash
vehicle again to remove any polish residue.
6 Use an ultra-fine pad and ultra-fine glaze to machine work the finish.
Buff by hand with a microfiber towel to a deep gloss finish.
148
FINAL CLEANING
AND DETAIL
PD-0810M
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
1 INSPECTION: Inspect the vehicle for any heavily soiled areas or bug spatter, tree sap
and other sticky substances.
2 INTERIOR: Pre-spot any heavily soiled interior spots using an All-Purpose Cleaner
and Degreaser.
3 WHEELS: Apply a heavy-duty wheel cleaner. Do not use on uncoated aluminum wheels.
OTHER AREAS: Apply an all-purpose cleaner and degreaser to engine compartment,
wheels, tires, jambs, etc.
TIRES AND WHEELS: Brush tires and wheels as needed.
RINSE: Rinse all areas where wheel cleaner or all-purpose cleaner and degreaser
were applied.
4 TAR: Remove tar, tape or adhesive residue with an Adhesive and Tar Remover.
5 PRE-TREAT: Pre-treat heavily soiled, bug spatter, tree sap and other sticky substances
with an all-purpose cleaner and degreaser.
6 WASH: Wash entire vehicle with car wash soap and water.
CLEANER CLAY: If paint overspray, oxidation, or environmental fallout such as acid rain
or bird droppings are present, use 3M™ Cleaner Clay to remove.
Rinse and dry.
7 TIRES: Dress tires with a Silicone-Free Tire Dressing.
8
INTERIOR: Clean interior with an all-purpose cleaner and degreaser. Rinse any
pre-spotted materials and treat again if necessary.
WINDOWS: Clean interior and exterior windows with glass cleaner.
9 Wipe vehicle with a detail cloth and inspect the vehicle for any remaining soiled areas.
149
FINAL CLEANING
MATTE CLEARCOAT
PD-0820M
Caution: Wear the proper safety
protection when sanding, cleaning,
mixing and spraying all materials
included within this process.
To maintain your vehicle’s low-gloss appearance for years to come, please refer to the following maintenance
recommendations below.
1 In order to keep the low gloss surface effect, avoid using paint cleaners, abrasives,
polishes or waxes. The vehicle must not be polished. Polishing will lead to a higher,
uneven gloss effect.
2 Cleaning with unsuitable materials could alter the low gloss effect (generally
increasing gloss).
3 Avoid automated car washing. The preferred car washing method is by hand with a soft
sponge, mild soap and lots of water. Frequent car washing over a period of time could
lead to increased and inconsistent gloss levels across a panel. Washing under direct
sunlight should also be avoided.
4 Insects and bird droppings should be removed immediately. These residues should
be soaked in water to soften and/or remove carefully with high pressure cleaning
equipment. In the case of strongly adhered residues, a spray-on insect remover should
be used prior to washing.
5 Whenever using any type of cleaning fluids with soft sponges or cloths, it is essential
not to apply pressure or rub the low gloss finish. A gentle wipe/spray-on, wipe-off
technique should be used. Applying pressure will alter the low gloss effect and result in
an uneven appearance.
6 Refer to the Matte Finish Care Guide (part number ARMATTECRG), for more detailed
instruction ons maintaining the perfect matte finish.
150
APPENDIX:
PD NUMBERS
PD NUMBER TOPIC PAGE NUMBER
PD-0001 Choosing Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) 10
PD-0105 Initial Cleaning 19
PD-1120 New E-Coat Parts 26
PD-1130 Used Parts 27
PD-1151 Sandblasted Bare Metal 30
PD-1152 Chemically Stripped Bare Metal 31
PD-1153 Mechanical Strip—Hand or Sander 32
PD-1154 Bare Metal Preparation 33
PD-1180 Body Filler Process 46
PD-1210 Plastic Bare Parts 50
PD-1220 Primed Plastic Parts 51
PD-1230 Plastic Used Parts 52
PD-1280 Plastic Body Filler 53
PD-0400 Spray Gun Setup 67
PD-0410 Spray Gun Troubleshooting 72
PD-0420 Spray Gun Cleanup 74
PD-1510 Primer Filler Process 78
PD-1520 Sprayable Primer Surfacer Process 79
151
PD NUMBER TOPIC PAGE NUMBER
PD-1530 Optional Use of Sealer 86
PD-1563M Direct-to-Metal (DTM) Seam Sealer 87
PD-0570 Pinchweld Priming Process 88
PD-1590 Sanding Primer Surfacer 89
PD-1631 Making a Sprayout Card 92
PD-1660 Tri-Coat Color Letdown Panel 93
PD-1701 Sealer Application Process 96
PD-1710 Basecoat Color Application—Waterborne 102
PD-1712 Applying Multiple Basecoat Colors—Waterborne 103
PD-1715 Basecoat Color Application—Solvent 106
PD-1720 Single-Stage Color Application 112
PD-1725 Midcoat Clear Application 119
PD-1730 Clearcoat Application 126
PD-1735 Matte Clearcoat Application 136
PD-0800M Removing Defects 146
PD-1805 Buffing and Polishing 147
PD-0810M Final Cleaning and Detail 148
PD-0820M Final Cleaning Matte Clearcoat 149
152
PPG
Automotive Refinish
19699 Progress Drive
Strongsville, Ohio 44149
800.647.6050
PPG Canada Inc.
2301 Royal Windsor Drive, Unit #6
Mississauga, Ontario L5J 1K5
888.310.4762
Follow us online:
www.ppgrefinish.com
www.vibrancecollection.com
The PPG Logo, Acryli-Clean, Delclear, Deltron, Ditzler, Ditz-O, En-V, Envirobase, H2
O-So-Clean, Omni, OneChoice, Vibrance Collection
and We protect and beautify the world are registered trademarks, and Deltron NXT and Multi-Prep are trademarks of PPG Industries Ohio, Inc.
All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
©2022 PPG Industries, Inc. All rights reserved. 9/22
At Motor City Truck Collision, we specialize in offering top-tier repair and maintenance services for Isuzu commercial trucks. Isuzu trucks are known for their durability and efficiency, making them a preferred choice for various industries. Our services are designed to ensure that your Isuzu truck, irrespective of its specific model or body type, receives the best care, keeping it in optimal condition for all your transportation needs.
Customized Repair Solutions for Any Isuzu Truck Type
Dry Freight Boxes:
Service Scope: We provide comprehensive repair and maintenance services for Isuzu dry freight box trucks, ensuring the integrity of the cargo space and the mechanical components.
Specialized Attention: Our team focuses on the unique aspects of these trucks, including door mechanisms, interior space, and weather-proofing solutions.
Refrigerated Boxes (Reefers):
Temperature Control Maintenance: Specialized services for the refrigeration units to maintain optimal temperature control, crucial for perishable goods.
Insulation Integrity: Regular checks and repairs of insulation to ensure the quality transportation of temperature-sensitive cargo.
Flatbed Bodies:
Structural Integrity: Our services include thorough inspections and repairs of the flatbed structure to handle heavy and oversized loads safely.
Custom Modifications: We offer modifications and enhancements for better load securing and transportation efficiency.
Utility Boxes:
Compartment Servicing: We focus on the maintenance of compartments and storage areas to ensure they meet the specific needs of service and repair industries.
Operational Efficiency: Our team ensures that all aspects of the utility boxes are in top condition for easy access and organization of tools and equipment.
Dump Bodies:
Hydraulic System Maintenance: Specialized attention to the hydraulic lift systems for reliable and efficient unloading.
Body Integrity Checks: Regular inspections of the dump body to ensure its robustness for heavy-duty usage.
Landscaper Bodies:
Versatile Repair Services: Catering to the unique combination of flatbed and dump body features, ensuring efficient operation in landscaping tasks.
Enhanced Functionality: We offer services to maintain and improve the multifunctional aspects of these bodies, including side walls and dumping features.
Collision Repair & Body Shop Services
Expert Collision Repair: We provide expert collision repair services for all types of Isuzu trucks, ensuring that your vehicle returns to its pre-accident condition.
Custom Paint Jobs & Body Work: Our state-of-the-art body shop is equipped to handle custom paint jobs and body repairs, tailored to the specific needs of your Isuzu truck.
Why Choose Motor City Truck Collision for Your Isuzu Truck?
Experienced Technicians: Our team of expert technicians is well-versed in the specific needs of Isuzu trucks, providing services that extend the life and efficiency of your vehicle.
Customer-Centric Approach: We prioritize customer satisfaction, offering personalized services and transparent communication throughout the repair process.
Quality Assurance: Our commitment to quality means using only the best parts and equipment to ensure your Isuzu truck receives the highest standard of care.
Contact Us for Your Isuzu Truck Needs
For any inquiries or to schedule a service appointment for your Isuzu commercial truck, please contact us at (248) 986-800
We are dedicated to ensuring your Isuzu truck is maintained and repaired with the utmost professionalism and expertise.
